Сколько песка и цемента в 1 м3 раствора для стяжки: Сколько надо цемента и песка на куб раствора для стяжки пола?

Расход цемента и песка на куб (1м3) бетона, раствора для кладки, стяжки, штукатурки

Глядя на мешки с цементом и кучу песка, не каждый застройщик чувствует себя спокойно и уверенно. Его мучает вопрос: какую пропорцию нужно выбрать для раствора, чтобы он получился достаточно прочным и при этом не «съел» лишних денег?

Сыпать «на глаз» — глупо и опасно, особенно если речь идет об ответственных бетонных работах на фундаменте или кирпичной кладке. Следовать принципу «чем больше, тем лучше» — тоже не вариант. Когда счет идет на кубы, такое правило может разорить застройщика.

Еще один вопрос, возникающий по этому поводу: как проконтролировать работу строителей, которым поручено готовить раствор и бетон? За всем не уследишь, поэтому нет гарантии, что цемент не уйдет «налево», а фундамент и кладка в скором времени не будут разрушаться.

Если же заказчик точно знает каков нормативный расход цемента и песка на раствор, ему легче контролировать свои затраты и следить за использованием закупленных материалов.

«Дедовский метод» или действующий СНиП?

Опыт – вещь хорошая, но не следует забывать и о строительных нормативах. Они учитывают все факторы, сопутствующие приготовлению растворов и бетона (чистоту, крупность, влажность песка и щебня, активность цемента и качество воды).

Поэтому, готовясь к работам по заливке фундамента, стяжки или кладке стен, не ленитесь заглядывать в гостовские таблицы. В них вам потребуется всего одна-две строчки. В них четко расписано, каким должен быть расход цемента на куб раствора для получения необходимой прочности (марки).

Вот простая «выжимка» из СНиП, которая поможет приготовить качественный раствор для кладки и стяжки. Изучив ее, помните о том, что приведенные нормы расхода немного отличаются от практических значений.

Марка цемента	Марка раствора	Норма расхода цемента для изготовления 1м3 раствора
М400	М200	490 кг
М500	М200	410 кг
М400	М150	400 кг
М500	М150	330 кг

Причина состоит в том, что они выводятся из стандартных условий приготовления (температура воздуха +23С, песок средней зернистости, идеально чистый, его влажность не более 7% и т.д.). Обеспечить нормативные параметры замесов на стройке не реально, поэтому лучше закупать цемент с небольшим запасом (10-15%).

Ответ на вопрос, сколько цемента и песка нужно на куб бетона вам дадут такие нормативы:

Марка бетона	Расход цемента М500 кг/1м3
М100	170
М150	200
М200	240
М250	300
М300	350
М400	400
М500	450

Делая бетон, важно знать не только количество цемента, но также нормативный объем песка и щебня. Для расчетов будет полезна следующая таблица.

Объемные пропорции для различных марок бетона

Бетон, марка	Соотношение цемент/ песок/щебень в литрах
	цемент М 400	цемент М 500
100	1,0 : 4,1 : 6,1	1,0 : 5,3 : 7,1
150	1,0 : 3,2 : 5,0	1,0 : 4,0 : 5,8
200	1,0 : 2,5 : 4,2	1,0 : 3,2 : 4,9
250	1,0 : 1,9 : 3,4	1,0 : 2,4 : 3,9
300	1,0 :1,7 : 3,2	1,0 : 2,2 : 3,7
400	1,0 : 1,1 : 2,4	1,0 : 1,4 : 2,8
450	1,0 : 1,0 : 2,2	1,0 : 1,2 : 2,5

Требуемый расход песка на 1м3 раствора – 1 кубометр. Некоторые застройщики заблуждаются, считая, что объем цемента увеличивает объем готовой смеси. Это не так. Цемент имеет очень тонкий помол, поэтому распределяется в пустотах между песком, не увеличивая общего объема бетона и раствора. Поэтому на 1м3 песка мы можем добавить и 200 и 400 кг цемента, получив тот же самый 1 куб раствора.

Воду в смесь добавляют по простой пропорции – половину от общего веса (не объема!) цемента. При этом нужно учитывать фактическую влажность песка и лить воду небольшими порциями, чтобы раствор или бетон не получились слишком жидкими.

Консистенция раствора по нормам определяется по величине осадки стандартного металлического конуса, опущенного в смесь. На стройке вам вряд ли удастся провести такое испытание. Поэтому просто помните о том, что густота кладочного раствора должна быть такой, чтобы он был не слишком жестким, а достаточно пластичным и не вытекал из швов. Для стяжки раствор и бетон должны быть средней густоты, чтобы их можно было легко уплотнить и выровнять правилом.

От чего зависит расход цемента?

Интуитивно каждый понимает, что расход этого вяжущего зависит от степени прочности конструкции, которую мы собираемся строить. Поэтому для фундамента нам потребуется бетон марки не ниже М300, а для стяжки будет достаточно раствора, прочностью 150 кг/см2 (М150).

Имеет значение и марка цемента, которая будет использоваться. Чем она выше (видно из таблиц), тем меньше будет расход вяжущего.

Расход цемента на штукатурку

«Классический» штукатурный раствор состоит из трех частей песка и одной части цемента (1:3).

Если средняя толщина слоя не превышает 12 мм, то на 1 м2 штукатурки нужно отвесить 1,6 кг цемента М400 или 1,4 кг цемента М500. Объем раствора на 1м2 рассчитать не сложно: 1м2х0,012 м = 0,012 м2 или 12 литров.

Расход цемента на кладку

Готовя цементно-песчаный раствор для кирпичной кладки, примите во внимание, что на строительство 1м2 стены толщиной в 1 кирпич (250 мм) потребуется не менее 75 литров раствора марки М100. Пропорция цемент (М400) — песок здесь составляет 1:4. Расход цемента на кладку кирпича при таком соотношении составит 250 кг на 1 куб песка.

Воду, как мы уже говорили, берут из расчета 1/2 от общего веса используемого цемента.

Переводя в понятные каждому «ведерные нормы» скажем, что на одно 10-ти литровое ведро цемента (М500) нам потребуется четыре ведра песка и 7 литров воды. Количество воды мы считаем, исходя из веса цемента в ведре (10 литров х1.4 кг х 0,5 = 7 литров).

Для оперативного определения потребности в цементном кладочном растворе для стен разной толщины (на 1 м3) можно воспользоваться следующей таблицей:

Вид кирпича		Толщина стен в кирпичах
		0,5 (12см)	1 (25см)	1,5 (38см)	2 (51см)	2,5 (64см)
Обычный (250х120х65мм)	Кирпич, шт.	420	400	395	394	392
	Раствор, м3	0,189	0,221	0,234	0,240	0,245
Модулированный (250х120х88мм)	Кирпич, шт.	322	308	296	294	292
	Раствор, м3	0,160	0,200	0,216	0,222	0,227

Сколько купить мешков цемента?

Пока дело не дошло до замеса, застройщику важно знать, сколько мешков с цементом придется закупить. Здесь также следует отталкиваться от стандартных норм расхода.

Допустим, нам нужно подсчитать расход цемента на стяжку пола. Оптимальная пропорция для обеспечения высокой прочности — 1:4. Цемента для этой работы нам понадобится ¼ куба. Для перевода кубов в килограммы используют усредненный показатель насыпной плотности вяжущего: в 1 литре – 1,4 кг цемента.

1/4 часть куба это 250 литров. Умножив их на 1.4 кг, получим 350 кг цемента. Итак, нам всего придется закупить 350/50= 7 мешков цемента (по 50 кг) или 14 мешков по 25 кг.

Подсчитать расход вяжущего на 1 м2 стяжки можно «обратным ходом». При толщине в 10 см на заливку одного «квадрата» потребуется 0,1 м3 раствора. Цемента в нем содержится в 10 раз меньше, чем в 1 кубометре: 350 кг/10= 35 кг. Для стяжки толщиной в 5 см нам потребуется 35/2=17,5 кг цемента М500.

На норму расхода цемента сильно влияет такой его показатель, как активность. Она определяется экспериментальным путем при замесе контрольных образцов и испытании их на прочность. Для рядового застройщика такой метод не подходит. Практический метод, которым нужно пользоваться при покупке и перед использованием – срок хранения.

Потеря цементом своей активности может достигать 20 % за один месяц. Поэтому, продержав этот материал в гараже три месяца, вы вместо марки 500, указанной на этикетке, получите марку 400. Используя такой вяжущий материал для раствора или бетона, норму расхода берите именно для этой (пониженной) марки. Если же цемент ждет своего «звездного часа» полгода, то ни на что, кроме вывоза на свалку, он не годен.

Бдительность следует проявлять и при покупке вяжущего, требуя от продавца сертификат на покупаемую партию, в котором указана заводская дата выпуска.

марка, расход и пропорции цемента на стяжку

Большинство современных проектов частных домов, не говоря уже о городских квартирах, подразумевает отказ от деревянных лаг в пользу сборных полов из железобетонных плит или устройства плит на месте строительства по монолитной технологии. Для выравнивания такого пола служат цементно-песчаные или бетонные стяжки. Также в их функции входят – поднятие основания пола до нужного уровня и создание гладкой поверхности, необходимой для укладки финишного покрытия. Эти смеси изготавливаются на основе цемента, воды и песка. Отличие бетонной стяжки от цементно-песчаной – присутствие крупного заполнителя (гранитного, гравийного, известнякового щебня). Рассмотрим подробнее, какой цемент применяется для изготовления стяжки пола и какие пропорции компонентов являются оптимальными.

Какие марки цемента лучше всего использовать для устройства стяжки пола?

Чаще всего при проведении строительных и строительно-ремонтных работ, к которым относится и устройство стяжки пола, используется портландцемент марки М400. Индекс в маркировке соответствует нагрузке, при которой материал сохраняет рабочие характеристики. Цемент М400 после твердения может воспринимать усилие до 40 МПа. Схватывание смеси на основе этого вяжущего начинается примерно через 1,5 часа и заканчивается через 2-2,5 часа. После марки в обозначении указывается буква «Д» и число, обозначающее в % наличие минеральных добавок.

• М400 Д0 – материал, состоящий только из клинкера. Добавки в нем отсутствуют.
• М400 Д5. Количество минеральных добавок – до 5 %.

Эта привычная всем маркировка регламентируется старым ГОСТом 101785-85. Ему на смену был выпущен ГОСТ 31108-2003, а затем 31108-2016. В них принята новая маркировка цемента. В начале указываются буквы ЦЕМ. После буквенной группы следуют римские цифры I или II (для портландцемента). Цифра I обозначает отсутствие добавок или их суммарное содержание не более 6 %, II – присутствие добавок в пределах 35 %. Прочность на сжатие в этих нормативах характеризуется не маркой, а классом. Так, материалу марки М400 соответствует продукт класса прочности В32,5. Цементам М400 Д0 и М400 Д5 по новой маркировке соответствует материал ЦЕМ I 32,5.

 

Какой цемент нужен для стяжек пола, испытывающего повышенные нагрузки или эксплуатируемого при пониженных температурах? Для этой цели обычно применяется вяжущее ЦЕМ I 42,5 (М500 Д0).

Какие моменты важны при покупке цемента для стяжки?

На характеристики вяжущего большое влияние оказывают условия и сроки хранения после его производства. Насыпная плотность свежего цемента зависит от тонкости помола, но в среднем она составляет 1000-1200 кг/м³. Если его хранить в условиях, отличных от установленных нормативами, или слишком долго, то этот показатель возрастает до 1700 кг/м³. Если относительная влажность высокая, то – до 3000 кг/м³. Такое повышение насыпной плотности приводит к значительному снижению, а потом и полной потере вяжущих свойств. Из активного вяжущего продукт превращается в инертную крошку.

Для домашнего строительства рекомендуется приобретать именно фасованный материал, поскольку у насыпного сложнее определить дату изготовления, к тому же, его сложнее хранить. Продается он обычно в прочных бумажных мешках по 25 и 50 кг. На упаковке указывается марка вяжущего по старому и новому ГОСТам, номер партии, дата изготовления, рекомендации по хранению и применению. При покупке цемента для стяжки следует осмотреть упаковку на предмет целостности, прощупать мешок (содержимое должно быть мягким на ощупь, без комков). Дата выпуска должна быть максимально поздней. Даже при правильном хранении цемент каждые три месяца теряет примерно 15 % первоначальных рабочих характеристик. Если же вам приходится использовать долго, но правильно хранившийся цемент, его процентное содержание в строительном растворе или смеси необходимо увеличить на 15-20 %.

Соотношение компонентов в цементно-песчаных стяжках

Для устройства стяжек толщиной до 50 мм используются только цементно-песчаные растворы или материалы с гранотсевом, в котором величина зерен не превышает 7 мм. Пропорции компонентов зависят от марки вяжущего и требуемой марки готового раствора. Если стяжка укладывается в помещении с низкой проходимостью, то достаточно изготовить цементно-песчаный раствор марки М100 (класс прочности В 7,5). Если планируются повышенные нагрузки на пол, то рекомендуется использовать материал более высокой марки М150 (В10, В12,5). К тому же, высокомарочные растворы быстрее набирают прочность, достаточную для проведения отделочных работ.

Таблица расхода цемента и других компонентов цементно-песчаных растворов для стяжек

Марка цемента	Марка цементно-песчаного раствора, Ц:П (по массе)
	М100	М150
400	1:4,5	1:3
500	1:5,5	1:4

При высыхании цементно-песчаная стяжка, даже при соблюдении технологических правил заливки и ухода, может покрываться трещинами. Для снижения вероятности их появления в раствор добавляют фибру. В жилых помещениях с низкой и средней проходимостью используют полипропиленовые фиброволокна. Они не только предотвращают образование трещин, но и увеличивают износостойкость поверхности. Добавки фибры рекомендуются для стяжек под мягкие финишные напольные покрытия типа линолеума и ПВХ плитки. В 1 м³ смеси, предназначенной для полов с невысокой проходимостью, добавляют примерно 300 г фиброволокон. При изготовлении раствора с фиброй обычно сначала смешивают сухие компоненты (цемент, песок, фиброволокна), а потом уже добавляют в смесь воду.

Сколько нужно цемента для устройства бетонной стяжки?

При толщине стяжки более 50 мм обычно используется не цементно-песчаный раствор, а бетонная смесь. В бетонных стяжках, помимо цемента, песка и воды, присутствует щебень. Для получения смеси с высокими теплоизоляционными характеристиками в качестве крупного заполнителя применяют керамзитовые гранулы.

Величина крупного заполнителя не должна превышать 20 мм. Но также можно ориентироваться на такое правило: толщина стяжки должна быть больше, чем удвоенный максимальный размер крупного заполнителя. То есть в слое толщиной 50 мм может присутствовать только заполнитель с максимальным размером зерна 25 мм.

Для устройства стяжек обычно используются бетонные смеси класса прочности В15 (М200). Соотношение количества цемента марки М400 по массе к другим компонентам (Ц:П:Щ ) в бетонных стяжках составляет 1:2:5. Пластификаторы добавляются по инструкции. Соотношение цемента и воды составляет 1:1-1,4.

Поверхность бетонной поверхности из-за присутствия крупного заполнителя не бывает идеальной. Ее выравнивают шлифовальными инструментами или с помощью самовыравнивающейся финишной стяжки, которую можно купить в сухом виде в строительном магазине.

Железнение цементно-песчаных и бетонных стяжек

При устройстве стяжек пола цемент используется не только для приготовления цементно-песчаного раствора или бетонной смеси, но и для железнения. Эта процедура, для которой используется сухой цемент, позволяет упрочнить поверхность стяжки, снизить пылеобразование при эксплуатации, увеличить ее рабочий срок.

Этапы сухого железнения:

• Работы по упрочнению верхнего слоя пола начинают после 5-7 часов после заливки. За это время цементный камень схватывается и приобретает прочность, достаточную, чтобы по полу можно было ходить.
• Поверхность посыпают сухим цементом (обычно марки М400) и втирают его полутерком аккуратными кругообразными движениями.
• Цемент втягивает избыточную влагу из уложенного раствора или смеси, проникает в поры и постепенно образует высокопрочную глянцевую корку зеленоватого цвета.

Дальнейшие работы по устройству финишного напольного покрытия можно проводить только через 10 суток после сухого железнения.

Использование чистого сухого цемента для железнения – самый простой, но не самый эффективный вариант из-за того, что образующаяся верхняя корка не очень долговечна. Со временем этот слой начинает разрушаться. Для создания высокопрочной корки рекомендуется приобрести готовую сухую смесь на основе цемента с различными добавками, улучшающими адгезию верхнего слоя к основанию.

90000 The Ultimate Guide to Mortar Mix Ratios [Updated 2019] 90001 90002 This page is part of our blog and is all about mortar mixes for home improvement and construction projects. 90003 90002 Whether you’re laying bricks, pointing, renewing chimney flaunching, laying screed or rendering, we have the best mix ratios for you. 90003 90002 Tradespeople and builders often use different terms to describe cement, concrete and mortar, so here’s a quick guide designed to avoid confusion: 90003 90002 90009 Cement 90010 is a greyish coloured powder that is mixed with sand and / or other aggregates to create concrete or mortar.90003 90002 90009 Mortar 90010 is a mixture of fine sand particles, cement, water and sometimes lime. It’s typically used for brick laying and pointing. It is usually laid in thin layers as thicker layers may crack during the drying process. 90003 90002 90009 Concrete 90010 is a mixture of aggregates such as crushed rock, gravel and sand that is mixed with cement and water. Concrete is usually laid in thick layers, the larger particles prevent cracking during the drying process. 90003 90002 90009 Soft sand 90010 is also known as building sand and contains fine grains of sand and is used for bricklaying, pointing and where thin layers of mortar are required.90003 90002 90009 Sharp sand 90010 is more coarse than building / soft sand and is perfect for mixing with other sands to prevent cracking during the drying process. It’s often used in situations where a slightly thicker layer of mortar is required — chimney flaunching, bedding roof tiles and many garden projects will require sharp sand. 90003 90002 90009 Plasterers sand 90010 is not as coarse as sharp sand but not as fine as soft sand. It’s washed to remove salts and clay residue that could cause efflorescence (salting).90003 90002 90009 Lime 90010 can be used as an alternative to cement in some mixes or used in conjunction with it. Lime allows materials such as bricks to breathe, it’s commonly used on older period buildings with soft, permeable bricks that would likely crack if cement was used. 90003 90002 90009 Plasticiser 90010 is a liquid that is added to the mix to make the material easier to work with and it also slows down the curing process slightly. It makes a typical mortar mix sticky and easier to point over.90003 90002 90009 Waterproofer 90010 is different to plasticiser. Does what it says on the tin and is often used when rendering. 90003 90002 90009 Frost proofers, accelerators and colour additives 90010 can be included in the mix as required. 90003 90048 Related Products Hand-Selected by Us 90049 90002 We think you might like these products: 90003 90052 Wolfcraft Mixer Paddle 90053 90002 90055 90003 90002 Make cement and plaster mixing easy with this heavy-duty mixer paddle. Suitable for most electric drills.90058 Check Price Here 90003 90052 60 Litre H / Duty Mixing Tub 90053 90002 90063 90003 90002 Perfect for mixing small amounts of cement or plaster in confined spaces, less mess and easy storage. 90058 Check Price Here 90003 90052 70 Litre Electric Mixer 90053 90002 90071 90003 90002 With an impressive 70 litre capacity, this electric mixer will save you time on any job, large or small. 90058 Check Price Here 90003 90052 60 Litre H / Duty Mixing Tub 90053 90002 90079 90003 90002 Perfect for DIYers and those on a limited budget is this 5-piece trowel set by Draper Redline.90058 Check Price Here 90003 90052 What Happens if You Make the Mortar Too Weak? 90053 90002 Not only will the mortar fail to bind sufficiently, it may also crumble after a short amount of time or wash away after minimal weathering. 90003 90002 The photo below shows a ridge tile that was bedded onto a very weak and totally unsuitable mortar mix. 90003 90002 The tile was not secured in place and the «mortar» could be crushed into small particles by simply squeezing it in my hand: 90003 90002 90093 90003 90052 What Happens if the Mix is ​​Too Strong? 90053 90002 Too strong a mix, i.e made with too much cement and your mortar may dry too quickly, shrink and crack. 90003 90002 Cracking can be avoided by reducing the amount of cement in the mixture and ensuring the mortar is wet enough. 90003 90002 The photo below shows cracked mortar — typical issues that can occur if the mix is ​​too strong: 90003 90002 90104 90003 90052 Best Mortar Mixes 90053 90002 Below you’ll find our guide to mortar mixes: 90003 90110 Bricklaying 90111 90002 The best mix will depend on the type of brick and the location of the wall.For most domestic builds such as house building, use one of these mixes: 90003 90002 4 parts soft sand with 1 part cement, add water and plasticiser. 90003 90002 For soft older bricks already bedded onto a lime based mortar; a lime and sand mix should be used, the ratio will depend on the type of lime and how much water content it has. This page has more detailed information about lime / sand ratios. 90003 90002 For retaining walls or anywhere likely to be in regular contact with water, 3 parts soft sand and one part cement, 1 part lime is optional depending on the type of brick / block.90003 90002 For Airtec blocks above DPC, 6 parts soft sand, 1 part cement and 1 part plasticiser or 5 parts soft sand and 1 part cement. 90003 90002 For blocks below DPC, 4.5 parts soft sand, 1 part cement and 1 part lime or 4 parts soft sand and 1 part cement 90003 90002 This page contains a price guide for wall repointing. 90003 90110 Chimneys 90111 90002 For chimney repointing to a modern home, the best mix will depend on how exposed the chimney is and it’s location. For chimneys in wind swept rainy parts of the country use a mix of 3 parts soft sand and 1 part cement.For softer or more permeable bricks, 4 parts sand, half part cement and 1 part lime can be used. Plasticiser is optional. 90003 90002 Chimney flaunching will receive a lot of rainfall so the mix should be strong, this prevents it washing out. Because flaunching is laid several inches thick, add sharp sand to the mix to avoid cracking during the drying process. 2 or 3 parts soft sand 1 part sharp sand, 1 cement and half-part lime is optional. 90003 90002 or 90003 90002 1 part soft sand, 2 parts sharp sand, 1 cement, half part lime is optional.90003 90002 For older period homes, a lime-based should be used instead of cement. 90003 90002 Chimney maintenance costs are published on this page. 90003 90110 Paving Mortar Mix 90111 90002 For bedding under the slabs use 5 parts sharp sand, 1 part soft sand and 1 cement. 90003 90002 For pointing use 4 parts soft sand and 1 part cement. For high traffic areas, a stronger mix of 3 parts soft sand and 1 part cement can be used. 90003 90002 This page contains a price guide for a new patio. 90003 90110 Render Mortar Mix (Modern Buildings) 90111 90002 The first coat of render should ideally be slightly stronger than the second coat.While some tradespeople make the two mixes the same strength, the second coat should never be stronger than the first coat. 90003 90002 A pure soft sand mix should not be used when rendering. It’s preferable to use either sharp sand, plasterers sand or a mixture of two. Soft sand can be added to the mix but we feel it should not comprise more than 25% of the entire mix. 90003 90002 The first coat of render can be 2 parts plasterers sand and 2 parts sharp sand, 1 part cement and half part lime. Waterproofer can be applied to the first coat if the property is modern.90003 90002 The second coat must be slightly weaker than the first, so 3 parts plasterers sand, 2 parts sharp sand, 1 part cement and half lime. Plasticiser can be used in the second coat. 90003 90002 For locations in the east and south of the country or any sheltered location that experiences less windswept rain, a slightly weaker mix can be used. For the first coat 4 parts sharp / plasterers and for the second coat 5 parts sharp / plasterers. 90003 90002 This page contains a guide to rendering prices in the UK.90003 90052 Render (Period buildings) 90053 90002 Modern buildings are constructed with thermal efficiency in mind and sealants, waterproofing materials and cement based products can be used. 90003 90002 Period properties are designed to breathe. Floors and walls are often constructed with lime, a material that lets the moisture in the building escape. Covering breathable materials with non-breathable cement, gypsum plaster or waterproofing sealers can lead to significant damp problems. 90003 90002 For period properties we suggest seeking the advice of a specialist who understands how older buildings are designed to breathe.90003 90110 Floor Screed Mix 90111 90002 For modern homes: 4 parts sharp sand and 1 part cement. Although anything from 3-5 parts sharp sand to 1 part sand would be acceptable for most situations. 90003 90002 For period buildings: Lay a lime-based screed as the floor needs to breathe. If you do not, the cement in the screed will push moisture towards the walls where the soft bricks and plaster will absorb the water. 90003 90110 Best Mortar Mix For Roof Tiles 90111 90002 Because roof tiles are located in an exposed location that’s likely to experience rainfall, a strong mix should be used.Unfortunately, some profiled roof tiles require a very thick bedding of mortar, so to reduce the risk of cracking, sharp sand should be introduced to the mix for most tiles. 90003 90002 All tiles except Plain tiles — 2 parts soft sand, 1 part sharp sand and 1 part cement. 90003 90002 For tiles where only a thin bedding of mortar is required (i.e. Plain tiles) 3 parts soft sand *, 1 part cement and plasticiser. 90003 90002 * we recommend choosing a soft sand that is fairly coarse, avoid soft sands that are at the «silty» end of the spectrum.90003 90002 90009 Do not forget; 90010 to meet new British Standards requirements for roof fixings, you can not rely on mortar to secure the tiles in place. Ridges, valley tiles and verges should be secured with a nail or clip, either in addition to the mortar in replacement of it, this is called a dry fix method. This page contains information about the differences between a dry and wet fixing method. 90003 90002 Roof repair prices can be located on our main price list here. 90003 90052 How Much Water is Too Much? 90053 90002 The firmness of the wet mortar can be altered by changing the type of sand, the sand / cement ratio and the amount of water added to the mix.90003 90002 Most bricks and blocks are quite porous and as only a thin layer of mortar is required, a wet or «sloppy» mix is ​​often preferable. 90003 90002 Some roof tiles require a bedding layer of mortar that’s several inches thick and a wet / sloppy mix would not be suitable, it would slump off the tile. For roofing projects, a firmer mixture is generally required. 90003 90002 Needless to say that mortar should never be so firm that it does not have enough water content to create a chemical reaction.Neither should it be so sloppy that it’s impossible to work with. 90003 90052 What’s the Lowest Temperature I Can Use Mortar? 90053 90002 5 degrees is the lowest temperature that mortar can be laid. Any colder and there is a risk of frost which will weaken the finished mortar. Frost proofers can be added to the mortar but should not be relied upon. 90003 90052 Additives 90053 90002 90009 Frost proofer 90010 should not be relied upon to protect mortar from freezing conditions. It can be used but its reliability is debatable.90003 90002 90009 Colourants 90010 can be used but only use as much as you need and avoid excessive amounts. 90003 90002 90009 Accelerators 90010 speed up the drying time but often leave you with little time to work with the mortar before it starts to set. If you continue to work with a mortar that has set, you’ll reduce the strength of the finished mortar. Therefore, you should only use them when absolutely necessary and not as a matter of course. 90003 90052 Concrete and Ready Mix Prices 90053 90002 If you do not want to mix the materials yourself, you can get it delivered by a ready mix supplier.90003 90002 This is the perfect option for large projects. 90003 90002 See ready mix concrete prices here. 90003 90048 Related Hand Selected by Us 90049 90002 We think you might like these products: 90003 90052 Wolfcraft Mixer Paddle 90053 90002 90055 90003 90002 Make cement and plaster mixing easy with this heavy-duty mixer paddle. Suitable for most electric drills. 90058 Check Price Here 90003 90052 60 Litre H / Duty Mixing Tub 90053 90002 90063 90003 90002 Perfect for mixing small amounts of cement or plaster in confined spaces, less mess and easy storage.90058 Check Price Here 90003 90052 70 Litre Electric Mixer 90053 90002 90071 90003 90002 With an impressive 70 litre capacity, this electric mixer will save you time on any job, large or small. 90058 Check Price Here 90003 90052 60 Litre H / Duty Mixing Tub 90053 90002 90079 90003 90002 Perfect for DIYers and those on a limited budget is this 5-piece trowel set by Draper Redline. 90058 Check Price Here 90003 90264.90000 A Screed Masterclass | Homebuilding 90001 90002 Very occasionally in the world of house construction a time-honoured way of doing things suddenly changes. But it takes a lot to uproot tried and tested methods. Builders are not keen on risking changing something that works well. 90003 90002 For something new to catch on there needs to be a compelling reason, usually in terms of cost or time saving. Sometimes the impetus is driven by changes to the Building Regs, such as meeting stiff thermal insulation targets, or architects may start specifying something en-masse that’s of demonstrably improved quality or performance.90003 90006 The Rise of Liquid Screeds 90007 90002 Either way, we may be about to witness one such ‘sea change’ in the normally sedate world of floor screeds with the rise of liquid screeds. 90003 90002 There’s no law that says you have to cover your ground floor structure with a screed before laying floor coverings. Screeds are not structural. For example, in garage conversions it’s common for floorboards to be placed over thick sheets of insulation. 90003 90002 One of the main reasons screeds are used in the vast majority of homes, despite the extra expense, is that 90013 they’re very useful for levelling uneven floor structures 90014.This is particularly important with modern precast concrete beam and block floors, which have a distinct camber that can cause problems when it comes to laying floor finishes. 90003 90002 Screeds are also the 90013 preferred medium for underfloor heating pipes 90014 as the material excels at absorbing and radiating warmth, becoming an integral part of the heating process. 90003 90002 Conventional sand / cement screed uses a relatively strong mix (1: 3 cement to sharp sand) with a fairly dry, almost powdery consistency.Traditionally it would be prepared on site but shovelling sand and cement into a mixer is very labour intensive and prone to inconsistency, which is why most larger sites now use ready-mixed screeds delivered by lorry, in a similar way to foundations. 90003 90002 Ready-mixed screeds also come with added retardants to delay the set, so a single load can last all day. But despite such improvements in quality, poured liquid screeds installed by specialist firms are starting to make major inroads into a market dominated until now by traditional sand and cement.90003 90002 Ashley Sexton, director of Express Liquid Screeds, says: «There’s been a huge increase in the popularity of pumped anhydrite screeds over the last five years; it’s estimated they now account for nearly 20% of the market, «he says. 90003 90002 The terminology can be a little confusing because the terms ‘anhydrite’, ‘calcium sulphate’ and ‘gypsum’ are used interchangeably. The key ingredient is anhydrous (dry) calcium sulphate, typically comprising around 35% recycled content. When mixed with water this forms gypsum, the same material found in modern plasters and plasterboard.The gypsum replaces conventional cement as a binder. 90003 90002 Cement also seems to be making something of a comeback. Andy Vincent from Screed Giant says: «The market has been shaken up in last six months as calcium sulphate has been joined by new cement-based products like McGraths ‘Cemfloor and Tarmac’s Belitex.» These claim to offer similar benefits to gypsum but without the downsides. So, what’s best? 90003 90006 The Pros and Cons 90007 90002 90013 Sand / Cement 90014 90003 90002 Old-fashioned sand / cement screed is 90013 relatively cheap to produce 90014 and place as it can be prepared by unskilled labour and trowelled on site.It also requires 90013 minimal preparation 90014 other than taping joints between insulation boards. And unlike poured liquid screeds, sand / cement readily lends itself to the formation of 90013 sloping floors 90014 in wetrooms. 90003 90002 The downside is often 90013 patchy quality, uneven finish and a propensity to develop cracks 90014. Where floors are uneven, a self-levelling compound may need to be applied before floor tiling. To avoid cracking, manually applied screeds are commonly laid in 5m-long bays, sometimes with anti-crack mesh or fibres added.90003 90002 Although it’s compatible with UFH, hand-mixed sand / cement is not ideally suited as it’s relatively thick (typically laid 65mm to 75mm deep) and prone to harbouring pockets of air that can act as a barrier to heat transfer. Using ready mix improves the consistency but adds to the cost, and unless skilfully applied the quality can still be mediocre. 90003 90002 As a rough guide, laying a conventional screed costs around £ 15 / m2, increasing by around £ 5 / m2 when delivered ready-mixed. 90003 90002 90013 Pumped Anhydrite Screeds 90014 90003 90002 Anhydrite (liquid calcium sulphate) screeds offer a number of advantages: 90003 90058 90059 They’re not much dearer than ready-mix sand / cement, costing around £ 25 / m3 (laid to a 50mm depth).90060 90059 Although the material itself costs about 50% more per m3 than sand / cement, being poured from a large hose makes it much quicker to lay (it’s claimed 20 times as quick) with consequent savings on labour. 90060 90059 Costs are also reduced because it 90013 can be applied at depths as thin as 35mm 90014. With underfloor heating you typically need 30mm cover above UFH pipes, making about 45mm in total, still incredibly slim by conventional standards. 90060 90059 Pumped liquid screeds are effectively 90013 self-levelling and self-curing 90014, which translates into a nice level finish.While traditional sand / cement screeds aim to achieve the standard known as ‘SR3’, which permits a 10mm difference over 2m, liquid screeds aim for perfection (SR1 standard) but guarantee SR2 with a variation of plus or minus 5mm. Quality is further assured as liquid screeds are applied by specialist approved contractors. 90060 90059 Anhydrite is far 90013 less prone to shrinkage 90014 than cement and needs far fewer expansion joints (just across some doorway thresholds). This makes it compatible with large stone tiles that can be vulnerable to cracking should the screed beneath them shrink.90060 90059 Best of all, liquid screeds are 90013 ideally suited to UFH 90014 because the liquid envelopes the pipes eliminating voids, so enhancing heat transfer between the pipes and the screed. Also the slimmer covering over pipes allows a quicker reaction time with better response / controllability. 90060 90079 90002 One downside of anhydrites is that you need to prepare the surface by sanding prior to tiling. 90003 90002 90013 Pumped Liquid Cement-Based Screeds 90014 90003 90002 Liquid cement screeds are applied in the same way as anhydrite and laid to the same thickness.They have similar properties to anhydrite: they are 90013 self-compacting, quick to lay and UFH-compatible 90014. Manufacturers claim they are quicker to dry, even in adverse conditions, and can be tiled with little or no surface preparation. 90003 90002 However, they’re relatively new to the UK and so far there’s 90013 little hard evidence to substantiate performance 90014, although they’ve achieved a successful track record abroad. They’re also about 20% dearer in terms of materials, although costs may fall as demand rises.90003 90006 Preparing the Floor 90007 90002 With liquid screeds of all types it’s essential to get the preparation right: 90003 90058 90059 The floor needs to be ‘tanked’ like a mini swimming pool using a polythene sheet membrane (typically 500 gauge). Here, a 500 gauge ‘tanking’ membrane is laid over the insulation with joints taped and tracks laid ready for underfloor heating. 90060 90079 90058 90059 In most cases the surface to be screeded will consist of 50 to 100mm-thick layers of insulation boards over a DPM (damp-proof membrane) on top of the floor structure.It’s important these sheets are stable when walked on and laid so they do not rock about on uneven sub-floors. 90060 90059 This base layer of insulation needs to be lined with polythene sheeting to stop the liquid escaping and, in a worst-case scenario, causing the insulation boards to lift up and float around the room. 90060 90059 Lining also helps prevent any potential chemical reaction with the insulation underneath. 90060 90059 Any rogue plumbing or obstacles may need temporary formwork placed around them to ensure 100% watertightness.90060 90059 To contain the liquid, the polythene sheet membrane is then lapped up the walls in a sharp right angle and glued in place with spray adhesive. This is in addition to existing layers such as the damp-proof course / damp-proof membrane, insulation strips around wall edges, and thin strips of compressible foam designed to accommodate any expansion once the screed is dry. 90060 90059 The final job is to tape all the joints and scrape off any lumps of plaster or debris so they do not float up to the surface once the screed is poured.90060 90059 If you’re installing UFH it’s essential the pipes are pressurised to weigh them down and they’re securely fixed over the polythene membrane to prevent them lifting up and floating as the screed is poured. 90060 90079 90002 With liquid screeds, it’s easy to underestimate the volume of material required if the floor structure is uneven. For example, the camber in beam and block floors means that the point you measure from might be a bit higher or lower than the median. So you might order 50mm depth and find it actually ranges from 40mm to 70mm.90003 90006 Applying the Screed 90007 90002 The installers usually arrive on site a couple of hours in advance to set up their pump and check floor measurements to ensure the amount of screed ordered will be sufficient. Working from a level datum point, such as the base of the stairs or a doorway, a number of tripod levelling gauges are placed around the floor at various points and with the help of a laser adjusted to a consistent depth, thereby ensuring the finished screed surface is level throughout.90003 90002 Once the mixer truck arrives the pre-mixed pumped screed is poured from a hefty-looking hose until the surface level reaches the marker tripods, which are then removed. It generally takes less than an hour to lay an entire ground floor in an average new house. 90003 90002 To make sure the screed is smooth and level with no air bubbles, the freshly applied screed is briefly manually agitated by someone wading through using a ‘dappling bar’. 90003 90006 Tiling and Floor Coverings 90007 90002 Sand / cement screeds are usually a bit dusty or sandy on the surface due to precipitation or poor mixing so they tend to need a firm brushing before priming and tiling.90003 90002 Calcium sulphate screeds are more demanding in this respect, because as the anhydrite cures a fragile coating of fine particles known as ‘laitance’ is deposited on the surface along with any bits of debris that may have floated up. This weak surface film is too friable and flaky to tile onto and needs to be abraded by sanding after about five to 10 days and the dust vacuumed off. Not doing this so is a major cause of failure with floor tiles, as it can peel off. Having this sanding done professionally can add around £ 8 / m2 to the cost.90003 90002 However, there are some new ‘low laitance’ varieties that only require a stiff brush or light sanding with 60 grit sandpaper. Problems can develop if the laitance is left for too long, as it becomes harder to remove and can also hinder the drying process. This is not such an issue if you plan to lay unbonded flooring without adhesive, such engineered timber boards. But before tiling it’s essential that floors are free of loose particles and primed to seal porous surfaces and prevent suction of moisture.90003 90002 You also need to use special anhydrite-compatible tile adhesives that do not chemically react with gypsum, such as AnhyFix or Keracoll h50. 90003 90006 New Varieties of Screeds 90007 90002 Manufacturers like Tarmac provide specially formulated products such as Topflow Soundbar — an acoustic screed originally designed to improve sound insulation between flats. These can be placed on top of timber floors, first having been strengthened with a layer of resilient foam under 24mm-thick chipboard.90003 90002 For use with underfloor heating, specially formulated Thermio Plus only needs a super-thin 20mm covering over the pipes, making it more efficient at conducting heat into the room with quicker response times to temperature changes and reduced drying times. Other specialist screeds have been developed for use with Lewis Deck dovetail sheeting, for underfloor heating and acoustics on timber joisted upper floors. 90003 90006 The Future 90007 90002 Small developers have long wanted to use liquid screeds, especially with underfloor heating.But sand / cement will still be around because pumped screeds are only cost-effective on floors areas of at least 40m2. For many smaller home extensions, floors will continue to be laid in the traditional way for the foreseeable future. 90003 90006 Drying Out Times 90007 90002 90013 Conventional sand / cement and anhydrite screeds 90014 90003 90002 You can walk on the floor after about 48 hours once it becomes solid. Normal site traffic can resume after about a week and partition walls erected.Another week and a kitchen can be fitted. The image shows Thermo Plus, which has a distinctive tan colour. The liquid floor is perfectly level and should be walkable in 48 hours. 90003 90002 Unfortunately you can not lay floor coverings until the screed is 100% dried out all the way through. Allow a day for every mm depth up to the first 40mm, then two days per mm. The optimum drying conditions would be an ambient temperature of around 20 ° C and well-ventilated rooms (windows must be closed for the first 72 hours to prevent draughts causing over-rapid drying).90003 90002 To be sure the floor has fully dried (less than 75% relative humidity or 0.5% moisture content) a special hydrometer can be used. In some cases it may be acceptable to lay impermeable floor tiles a little sooner. 90003 90002 Several factors affect drying times: 90003 90058 90059 With sand / cement, specifying a modified admixture can speed things up so floor coverings can be down in about three weeks. 90060 90059 Anhydrites are very sensitive to drying conditions — it helps if the walls are plastered and dried out first so that room moisture levels are not too high.90060 90059 If time is short the process can be speeded up using ‘force drying’ techniques, shrinking drying times to less than 40 days. 90060 90059 Dehumidifiers can be used to accelerate drying 72 hours after placing. 90060 90059 After the first week UFH can be set to its lowest temperature and gradually turned up by 3 ° C per day until the working temperature is reached. 90060 90079 90002 90013 Cement liquid screeds 90014 90003 90002 Their drying times are claimed to be as short as two to three weeks for a 40mm thick floor with good drying conditions, compared to around 40 days with calcium sulphate.They can also be force-dried and will not re-absorb moisture, so are more reliable in poor drying conditions. 90003 .90000 Popular Automatic Sand And Cement Screed Pump For Sale 90001 90002 90003 popular automatic sand and cement screeding pump for sale 90004 90005 90002 90005 90002 Contact shot 90005 90002 90003 Welcome to inquiry me if you have any questions, we will reply you within 24 hours. 90004 90005 90002 90005 90002 90005 90002 Product Description 90005 90002 90003 Parameter of SINCOLA popular automatic sand and cement screeding pump for sale 90004 90005 90024 90025 90026 90027 90002 Model 90005 90030 90027 90002 SRM7 90005 90030 90027 90002 Usage 90005 90030 90027 90002 Brick Wall, Block Wall, Indoor 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Rendering Thickness (mm): 90005 90030 90027 90002 5mm-30mm 90005 90030 90027 90002 Dimension (mm): 90005 90030 90027 90002 1000 * 650 * 550mm 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Rendering Speed ​​(m² / h) 90005 90030 90027 90002 70-80 90005 90030 90027 90002 Weight (Kg) 90005 90030 90027 90002 140kg 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Rendering Height (m) 90005 90030 90027 90002 3.5M 90005 90030 90027 90002 Power: 90005 90030 90027 90002 0.75kw 380v / 220v 90005 90030 90043 90098 90099 90002 90005 90002 90005 90002 90003 Other types of SINCOLA 90003 popular automatic sand and cement screeding pump for sale 90004 90108 90004 90005 90024 90025 90026 90114 90002 AUTOMATIC RENDERING MACHINE 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Model 90005 90030 90124 90002 SRM2 90005 90030 90124 90002 SRM4 90005 90030 90132 90002 SRM5-1 90005 90030 90136 90002 SRM5-1.2 90005 90030 90124 90002 SRM6 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Rendering 90005 90002 Height (m) 90005 90030 90124 90002 5 90005 90030 90124 90002 4.2 90005 90030 90132 90002 3.8 90005 90030 90136 90002 3.8 90005 90030 90124 90002 3.5 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Rendering 90005 90002 Width (mm) 90005 90030 90124 90002 800 90005 90030 90124 90002 800 90005 90030 90132 90002 1000 90005 90030 90136 90002 1200 90005 90030 90124 90002 1000 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Rendering Speed ​​(m² / h) 90005 90030 90124 90002 60 -70 90005 90030 90124 90002 60-70 90005 90030 90132 90002 70-80 90005 90030 90136 90002 80-100 90005 90030 90124 90002 70-80 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Rendering 90005 90002 Thickness (mm) 90005 90030 90234 90002 5-30 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Power 90005 90030 90124 90002 2.2KW / 380V-50HZ / 60HZ 90005 90030 90124 90002 0.75KW / 380V / 220V-50HZ / 60HZ 90005 90030 90132 90002 1.5KW / 380V / 90005 90002 220V-50HZ / 60HZ 90005 90030 90136 90002 1.5KW / 380V / 90005 90002 220V- 50HZ / 60HZ 90005 90030 90124 90002 0.75KW / 380V / 220V-50HZ / 60HZ 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Electricity Phase 90005 90030 90124 90002 Three 90005 90030 90124 90002 Single / Three 90005 90030 90132 90002 Single / Three 90005 90030 90136 90002 Single / Three 90005 90030 90124 90002 Single / Three 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Dimension (mm) 90005 90030 90124 90002 1350 × 800 × 500 90005 90030 90124 90002 800 × 650 × 550 90005 90030 90132 90002 1000 × 650 × 550 90005 90030 90136 90002 1200 × 650 × 550 90005 90030 90124 90002 1000 × 650 × 550 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Weight (Kg) 90005 90030 90124 90002 180 90005 90030 90124 90002 110 90005 90030 90132 90002 100 90005 90030 90136 90002 110 90005 90030 90124 90002 140 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Usage 90005 90030 90234 90002 Brick Wall, Block Wall, Indoor 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Suitable 90005 90002 Materials 90005 90030 90234 90002 1.Cement Mortar, 2.Ready Mix Mortar, 3.Gypsum Mortar, 4.Lime Mortar 90005 90030 90043 90026 90027 90002 Feature 90005 90030 90124 90002 90005 90002 90005 90002 90005 90002 90005 90002 90005 90002 Feeding 90005 90002 mortar by 90005 90002 manual 90005 90002 control 90005 90030 90132 90002 90005 90002 90005 90002 90005 90002 Shift machine 90005 90002 conveniently when 90005 90002 pass door or concrete beams of 90005 90002 ceiling no need to 90005 90002 disassemble 90005 90002 directional pipes.90005 90030 90132 90002 New alluminium 90005 90002 alloy main 90005 90002 unit and stainless steel 90005 90002 directional pipes. 90005 90002 Original gear rack 90005 90002 driving system 90005 90002 enable output 90005 90002 of main power 90005 90002 is more peaceful 90005 90002 and stable 90005 90002 Less failure rate. 90005 90030 90124 90002 Higher productivity, 90005 90002 bigger working area. 90005 90002 new alluminium alloy 90005 90002 main unit and stainless 90005 90002 steel directional pipes.90005 90002 Original gear rack 90005 90002 driving system 90005 90002 enable output 90005 90002 of main power is 90005 90002 more peaceful 90005 90002 and stable less 90005 90002 failure rate. 90005 90030 90132 90002 No Need to Mark the 90005 90002 Reference Point. 90005 90002 One Man’s Operation. 90005 90002 Higher Quality 90005 90002 of Flatness. 90005 90002 Limit Lever. 90005 90002 Increase 30% 90005 90002 the Volume 90005 90002 of the Mortar Tank. 90005 90002 Stretched Plate of the 90005 90002 Overhead Beam 90005 90030 90043 90098 90099 90002 90005 90002 Sincola 90003 popular automatic sand and cement screeding pump for sale 90004 with CE certificate also called plaster machine, wall plastering machine, automatic plastering machine, plastering machine for wall , which is a unique machine for wall rendering, it is designed for increasing rendering efficient and saving labor cost of rendering project.90005 90497 90003 Features of SINCOLA 90003 popular automatic sand and cement screeding pump for sale 90004 90108 90004 90503 90002 1.Add the vertical scraper, to insure the vertical and smooth degree of the metope. 90005 90002 2.Increase the ash damper, to increase the ash content of ash hopper. 90005 90002 3.Up and down handwheel positioning, no need to make points, higher accuracy. 90005 90002 4.Single-phase 220 v 380v 415v using broadband circuits, more suitable for unstable voltage area.90005 90002 5.Adopt the international newest spring connection way, avoid shaking loose, no need to maintenance. 90005 90002 6.Infrared laser leveling way, easy and convenient. 90005 90002 7.Unique positioning way, single person can operate. 90005 90002 90005 90002 Brick Wall And Block Wall 90005 90002 1.Cement Mortar 2.Ready Mix Mortar 3.Gypsum Mortar 4.Lime Mortar 90005 90002 90005 90002 90005 90002 Company Information 90005 90002 Zhengzhou Sincola Machinery Co., Ltd is a stated- designated manufacturer and exporter of road and building construction machineries.We are the one of the big manufacturer and supplierin China. 90005 90002 90005 90002 Our products are Shotcrete machinery and Concrete Pump, Plaster Machine, Mortar Pump, Spraying Machine, Industrial Hose Pume, Grouting Pump, Automatic rendering machine. Also we are the manufactur, supplier and exporter of semi-automatic and full-automatic dry motar mixing plants.large and medium size of concrete mixing plants. 90005 90002 90005 90002 Our company engaged an international expert guidance, the study has been made a number of patents.Our technical experts from the United States, Germany, Italy and other multi-national team of experts. 90005 90002 90005 90002 Our products are well known to international market such as Russia, UzbekistanRussia, Uzbekistan, Cyprus, Algeria, Cameroon, Macedonia, Malaysia, Austrialia, Yemen, 90005 90002 Oman etc. 90005 90002 90005 90002 Our products have widely been applying in construction, railway and super highway engineering, underground engineering, tunneling, mining operation, hydropower projects and slope stabilization.90005 90002 Our Services 90005 90002 We keep the service idea of ​​»creat more value to customers», treating our customers with all our hearts, and meantime lawfully running it. Our customers distribute in over 120 countries in Asia, Europe, Middle east, Oceania and America. We apply our professional knowledge and full global service capability to ensure the best results for our customer’s business … 90005 90002 90005 90002 90005 90002 FAQ 90005 90002 90003 Q1. What payment terms do you accept? 90004 90005 90002 90003 A1.We can accept 90004 90005 90002 90003 1. 30% T / T, 70% T / T after inspecting cargo in the factory before delivery. 90004 90005 90002 90003 2. 30% T / T, 70% T / T against B / L copy after delivery. 90004 90005 90002 90003 3. 30% T / T, 70% L / C. 90004 90005 90002 90003 Q2. How to see machine operating before buy it? 90004 90005 90002 90003 A2. We can supply 90004 90005 90002 90003 1. We can supply you our video link for the machine you want, you can watch machine operating on YuTube. 90004 90005 90002 90003 2.We alos welcome customers come to our factory to see machine in person. Maybe you can be our agent in your country. 90004 90005 .90000 Cement FAQs | Builders South Africa 90001 90002 WHAT SIZE CEMENT BAGS DOES BUILDERS STOCK? 90003 90004 Cement traditionally comes in 50 kg bags, which is what Builders stocks. 90005 90002 WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CEMENT AND CONCRETE? 90003 90004 Although people tend to interchange the terms cement and concrete, cement (a mixture of a very fine powder made from limestone, sand, clay, and iron ore) is in fact an ingredient of concrete. When mixed with gravel and sand, and water, the finished product is concrete.90005 90002 WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MORTAR AND PLASTER? 90003 90004 Mortar is a mix of cement, water and fine aggregate sand, which glues together bricks or blocks, and gives strength and stability to a wall. Plaster comprises even finer sand than mortar and is used to render outside and inside walls. 90005 90002 WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF CEMENT? 90003 90004 Most common types of cement are referred to as Portland cement. Cement is classified CEM I to V. CEM I is basic Portland cement, while the other four categories are factory blends of CEM I with other types of materials to give them different properties.90005 90004 White Portland cement contains little or no iron or manganese, which give cement its grey colour. It’s more expensive to produce than the conventional product, so is more suited to decorative applications. 90005 90002 WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT STRENGTH CLASSES OF CEMENT? 90003 90004 There are three main strength classes for cement: 35,5, 42,5 and 52,5. The strength class of most cements is measured in a standard test at ages two or seven days, and at 28 days. You’ll also find the letters N or R on cement bags.N refers to a class of cement with normal strength development and R (rapid) denotes cement that achieves better early strength. 90005 90002 HOW DO I KNOW WHICH TYPE OF CEMENT TO CHOOSE? 90003 90004 The type of cement you use is entirely dependent what you’re planning to build and the strength that is required for that structure. However, as a rule of thumb, 32,5N classified cement is a good general purpose choice. When in doubt, ask one of the experts at Builders. 90005 90002 HOW DO I WORK OUT THE MIX RATIO FOR CONCRETE? 90003 90004 The mix ratio is specified in two ways — the proportions of each material is stated in volume or mass; or a strength requirement may be given.90005 90004 Volume is expressed in ratios, for example 1: 4: 4, refers to cement, sand and stone respectively. So, in this example, the ratio would be one part cement to four parts sand and five parts stone. 90005 90004 A similar example of ratio in mass, would be 50 kg of cement to 200 kg of each sand and stone. 90005 90004 If concrete is specified by strength, this is given in megapascals (MPa), or the pressure that concrete can withstand in a crushing test. 90005 90002 HOW DO I CALCULATE THE QUANTITY OF CEMENT FOR DIFFERENT APPLICATIONS (IE SCREEDING)? 90003 90004 According to the National Home Builders Registration Council, you need: 90005 90004 90043 Mortar: 90044 Two bags of cement and eight wheelbarrows of sand will lay 770 bricks in a hollow-cavity or single leaf wall; 640 bricks in a double-leaf wall; 770 (390 x 190 x 90), 510 (390 x 190 x 140) and 360 (390 x 190 x 190) blocks.90005 90004 90043 Plaster: 90044 Two bags of cement and six wheelbarrows of sand will cover 20 m2 at 15 mm thickness. 90005 90004 90043 Screeding: 90044 9.1 bags of cement, two wheelbarrows of sand and two wheelbarrows of stone (6.75 or 9 mm) will make 1 m3 of screed. 90005 90002 HOW DO I MIX CEMENT? 90003 90004 If you’re not using a ready mixed cement, the most important thing is to get the ratios right to contain your costs. For small projects, mixing can be done in a wheel barrow. For larger jobs, measure out the sand and place in a long, thin heap on a flat, clean, hard surface, pour the cement on top of the sand and add clean water to a runny consistency.Once it’s thoroughly mixed, add the stone, which will stiffen up the mixture. 90005 90002 HOW DO I PAINT CEMENT? 90003 90004 Make sure the surface is thoroughly clean and dry before applying paint. 90005 90004 90043 Acrylic paint: 90044 apply bonding agent to the surface, and leave to cure for at least two hours. Apply two coats (allowing the first to dry for at least two hours before applying the second) with a wool roller. 90005 90004 90043 Epoxy: 90044 Mix the two components together, add 15% lacquer thinners.Use a brush or mohair roller to apply. Leave to cure overnight then reapply without diluting the paint. 90005 90004 90043 Enamel: 90044 Apply plaster primer with a mohair roller or brush. Leave to cure overnight, then apply stoep enamel with the same sort of brush. 90005 90002 HOW DO I WATERPROOF CONCRETE? 90003 90004 By its nature, concrete is not waterproof. There are admixtures available on the market that are added to the cement mix stage. Or there are coatings, sealers and membranes that can used on the concrete once it’s set.It’s a good idea to waterproof concrete in areas exposed to water, such as the kitchen or bathroom indoors, and concrete ponds and water features outside. 90005 90002 CAN I USE CEMENT AS GROUT? 90003 90004 Grout is basically a runny cement mix, so technically, yes you can. But unless you know what you’re doing, things could go horribly wrong. Builder’s has a whole range of grouting products, so rather use the right product for the job. 90005 90002 CAN I ADD A PRODUCT TO CEMENT TO MAKE IT DRY QUICKER? 90003 90004 Calcium-based accelerators can be used as admixtures to the cement mixtures to speed up the rate of hardening and early gain in strength of concrete.Bags with an R on them also indicate a rapid-hardening cement. 90005 90002 WHAT’S THE SHELF LIFE OF CEMENT? 90003 90004 Stored in a dry place, the shelf life of cement is six months inland and three months at the coast. 90005 90002 CAN I USE CEMENT WITHOUT MIXING WITH SAND? 90003 90004 You can, but you’re going to end up with a product that will eventually crumble. Sand fills the voids between the cement and the aggregate to make it stronger. 90005 90002 IS CEMENT HARMFUL TO MY HEALTH? 90003 90004 Cement has an alkali base, so it can cause burns when it comes into contact with your skin.The fine powder can also irritate your eyes and lungs. But with the right safety precautions, wearing protective gear, injuries can be avoided. 90005 90002 HOW DO I REMOVE CEMENT FROM CLOTHES WHEN IT’S ALREADY DRY? 90003 90004 If you’ve got dried cement on your clothes, scrape any lumps off the fabric with a blunt knife. A good home-grown remedy is one tablespoon of salt and one cup of vinegar added to cold water, with the clothes soaked in the mixture. 90005 90002 HOW DO I PROTECT MY CONCRETE AND KEEP IT LOOKING GOOD? 90003 90004 You can apply a sealer to concrete to protect it from spills and stains.There are different types depending on the location of the surface. 90005 90106 90107 Penetrating sealers (silanes, siloxanes, silicates, and siliconates) are best for outdoors, where your concrete is exposed to temperature variations. 90108 90107 Acrylics (solvent- or water-based) can be used both indoors and outdoors, but solvent-based acrylic sealer stand up better to outdoor applications. 90108 90107 Polyurethanes (solvent- or water-based) are also good for interior and exterior use, such as floors in high-traffic areas, and on coloured, stamped or exposed aggregate concrete and concrete countertops.90108 90107 Epoxies can yellow with age, so are better for interiors. 90108 90115 90002 HOW SHOULD I STORE CEMENT? 90003 90004 Cement is activated by water, so storage spaces need to be as leakproof and moisture-free as possible. Cement bags need to be stacked on wooden planks, 15 to 20 cm off the off the floor, and away from walls. Always store the cement so that it can be used in a first in, first out basis. If there are lumps in the cement that can not be crumbled by hand, the cement is not fresh and should be discarded.90005 90002 HOW DO I REMOVE STAINS FROM CONCRETE? 90003 90004 Stains can be removed from concrete using dry or wet methods. 90005 90004 Dry methods include sandblasting, flame cleaning and shot-blasting, grinding, scabbing and scouring. Be cautious of using steel-wire brushes — they can leave metal particles behind that may rust and stain. 90005 90004 Wet methods involve water or chemicals depending on the nature of the stain. Chemicals either dissolve the stain so it can be blotted up from the surface of the concrete or bleach it so it will not show.90005 90002 HOW DO I POLISH CONCRETE? 90003 90004 You polish concrete like you sand wood. Use a heavy-duty polishing machine with progressively finer grits of diamond-impregnated segments or disks, starting with the most coarse. This could take three or four applications, depending on the condition of the concrete. 90005 90004 Next, use the same technique with diamond abrasives embedded in a plastic or resin matrix, until the surface has the desired sheen. 90005 90004 Lastly, a commercial polishing compound can be applied.90005 90002 HOW LONG DOES CEMENT TAKE TO DRY? 90003 90004 Generally, concrete sets in 24 to 48 hours and partially cured within a week (keep the cement free and clear of heavy equipment during this period) at which you can continue building / construction. Most mixes fully cure at 28 days. 90005 90002 HOW MANY BAGS OF CEMENT WOULD I NEED FOR 1 M3? 90003 90004 The number of bags depends on the strength of concrete you require. 90005 90106 90107 Low-strength concrete (10 — 15 MPa) 4,6 bags 90108 90107 Medium-strength concrete (20 — 29 MPa) 6,1 bags 90108 90107 High-strength concrete (30 — 35 MPa) seven bags 90108 90115 90002 WHAT ARE AGGREGATES? 90003 90004 Aggregates are the granular materials used in making concrete.Coarse aggregate is the stone component of concrete that adds bulk and lessens the cost. The larger the aggregate the less water and cement is needed for the mix. Fine aggregate comprises sand and is a void filler, closing the gap between the stone and cement / water mix. The sand needs to be builder’s quality and free of twigs, leaves and other organic matter. 90005 90002 HOW DO I COLOUR CONCRETE? 90003 90004 There are various ways of colouring or staining concrete, depending on which stage of the process you add colour.The professionals at Builders will point you in the right direction. 90005 90002 WHAT WILL HAPPEN IF I ADD TOO MUCH CEMENT / SAND TO MY MIX? 90003 90004 Increasing the cement content increases the strength, but there is a tipping point where the reverse starts happening. The result is a finished product that is brittle. 90005 90004 A very high amount of sand will make your mix very brittle and weak. 90005 90002 WHICH TOOLS ARE NEEDED WHEN WORKING WITH CONCRETE? 90003 90106 90107 Timber (formwork and pegs) 90108 90107 Builder’s wheelbarrows 90108 90107 Square-mouthed shovels 90108 90107 Screed board (smooth, heavy board about 900 mm wider than the formwork) 90108 90107 Wooden float (flat piece of wood with a handle) 90108 90107 Steel trowel 90108 90107 Edging tool to make cross joints and edging 90108 90107 15 mm grooving tool 90108 90107 Garden rake 90108 90107 Mallet or heavy hammer 90108 90107 Plastic sheeting to cover the areas to be concreted 90108 90115 90002 WHY DO CONCRETE SURFACES FLAKE AND SPALL ? 90003 90004 To prevent flaking and spalling, make sure there is no water sheen or excess bleed water on the surface before finishing the concrete, otherwise the water content in the surface concrete will have too high, making it weak and less durable.Similarly, too much water in the mix will contribute to early flaking and spalling of the surface. 90005 90002 WHY DOES CONCRETE CRACK? 90003 90004 There are two common types of cracks (the result of shrinkage as concrete dries). Both are related to bleeding (when the mass of the paste sinks and water rises to the top) of the plastic concrete, but in different ways. 90005 90106 90107 Shrinkage: These are the random, non-continuous cracks that you’ll often find on large slabs. It usually happens shortly after the concrete has been finished, and is a result of the evaporation rate being faster than the bleeding rate.The best way to avoid these cracks is to lay the concrete during the coolest part of the day and avoid extreme weather conditions. 90108 90107 Settlement: These cracks happen after the cement is compacted, and the solid particles settle and the water rises to the surface. The settlement process continues until the concrete stiffens. 90108 90115 90002 W 90003.