Плиты на фундамент: пошаговая инструкция выполнения работ своими руками

Плиты перекрытия на ленточный фундамент: виды и их выбор, как кладут

Ленточный фундамент является наиболее распространенным вариантом опоры для частных домов и малоэтажных построек.

После того, как лента фундамента возведена, необходимо обустроить основание для пола первого этажа. В последнее время все чаще для этого используются железобетонные плиты перекрытия.

О разновидностях плит перекрытия, этапах укладки их на ленточный фундамент расскажем в статье.

Виды

Железобетонные плиты перекрытия изготавливаются по двум технологиям – с применением опалубки и без нее.

В первом случае бетон заливают в опалубку, после этого с помощью вибрации его уплотняют, на последнем этапе изделия подвергают термообработке. Железобетонные изделия данного типа можно узнать по немного неровным краям и шероховатой поверхности. Они более прочные, долговечные, обладают изоляционными свойствами.

Безопалубочная технология предполагает заливку бетонной ленты, которая после набора прочности разрезается на плиты стандартного размера. Они получаются с более гладкой поверхностью и ровными краями.

Кроме этого плитные изделия делятся на:

1. Пустотные (со сквозными продольными отверстиями).
2. Монолитные (полнотелые с усиленным армирующим каркасом).
3. Облегченные (армируются натянутой сеткой).
4. Сплошные доборные (доборные элементы из бетона высокой прочности).
5. Ребристые или шатровые (с ребрами жесткости, повышающими устойчивость к механическим воздействиям).
6. Полнотелые (самые прочные, но и самые тяжелые).

Пустотные плиты обладают хорошими теплоизоляционными и звукоизоляционными характеристиками, при этом они имеют небольшой вес. Именно ими чаще всего накрываются ленточные фундаменты в малоэтажном строительстве. Они ненамного утяжеляют общий вес здания, поэтому под них не нужно сооружать ленту повышенной прочности.

Возводя здание на подвижном грунте, иногда используют шатровые плиты. Они изготавливаются с двумя продольными ребрами жесткости, благодаря чему имеют П-образную форму. Обеспечивают максимальную защиту фундаменту и надземной части здания от деформаций.

Применяют и полнотелые перекрытия тоже, но это не самый рациональный вариант. Они слишком тяжелые для фундамента малоэтажного дома.

Выбор плит основывается на требованиях к перекрытию и не зависит от технологии монтажа на ленту. Но в маркировке указывается, на сколько опор можно класть те или иные плиты. У плит, предназначенных для укладки на две, три  или четыре стороны характеристики отличаются.

Как кладут?

Начинать этап укладки перекрытия можно только после полного затвердевания бетона ленты. На это уходит около 28 дней в зависимости от погоды. После этого фундамент нужно накрыть гидроизоляцией и только потом класть плиты.

Подготовка

Чтобы процесс монтажа плит прошел без проблем и задержек, нужно к нему тщательно подготовиться:

• распланировать последовательность действий;
• расчистить подъездные пути;
• проверить готовность фундамента;
• закупить все необходимое для бетонного раствора;
• пригласить бригаду строителей и заказать доставку элементов перектытия.

Если монтаж будет осуществляться своими силами, без привлечения профессиональных рабочих, нужно пригласить 2-3 помощников.

Монтаж

Сначала необходимо правильно расположить погрузчик. Он не должен стоять слишком близко к застройке, так как много весит и может спровоцировать обвал грунта.

Чем легче плиты, тем с большим выносом стрелы их можно поднимать и укладывать. Это значит, что при монтаже пустотных плит погрузчик может стоять на максимальном расстоянии от фундамента, что является еще одним плюсом этого варианта перекрытий.

Каждая плита перед подъемом крепится четырьмя крюками. Укладываются с нахлестом на фундамент минимум в 6 сантиметров. Укладывать элементы следует ломами при натянутых стропах.

Под плиту наносят бетонный раствор по всей ее ширине. После того, как элемент займет свое место, можно усилить стяжку арматурными прутами или брусьями.

Крепление к основанию

Единственное преимущество монолитных тяжелых перекрытий в том, что после укладки они не нуждаются в дополнительном креплении. Пустотные легкие плиты нужно закрепить.

С этой целью в петли, предназначенные для удобства при транспортировке, протягивается проволока диаметром до 10 мм. Она загибается и кладется на фундамент под прямым углом. Таким образом, связываются крайние плиты по всем петлям, и каждая вторая промежуточная плита по одной петле.

Соединение блоков

Плиты связывают не только с фундаментом, но и между собой.

Крайние элементы связываются перекрестным армированием, стыковочные – при помощи «С» и «П» связки, концы на наружном фундаменте – поперечной обвязкой.

Армирование

Прочность перекрытия может быть повышена путем применения армирующей сетки или армирующего пояса. Сетка кладется сверху на готовый плитный настил, после чего заливается бетоном. Пояс выполняется путем установки по периметру здания прутьев арматуры в два ряда. Их связывают между собой и заливают бетоном.

Герметизация

Плиты укладываются на гидроизоляцию, которой покрывается ленточный фундамент. Этой защиты обычно достаточно. Грунтовые воды проникнуть через нее внутрь постройки не могут. С фасадов вся цокольная часть здания закрывается гидроизоляционной отделкой. Но для большей надежности укладывают гидроизоляцию еще и на перекрытие.

Теплоизоляция

Пустотные плиты обеспечивают постройке хорошую теплоизоляцию. Но дом можно сделать еще более энергосберегающим. Для этого пустоты заполняют рыхлым изоляционным материалом.

Обычно применяется стеклянная, шлаковая или каменная минеральная вата. Она проста в применении, при этом не горит и не гниет, поэтому на протяжении всего длительного эксплуатационного периода бетонных конструкций будет выполнять свои функции.

Ее протягивают в пустоты примерно на 15 см, оставляя свободный край в 10 см. После этого отверстия бетонируются, чтобы защитить минвату от влаги. Вместо минеральной ваты можно использовать базальтовый утеплитель или пенопласт.

Строители нередко прибегают к более экономичным вариантам утепления пустот. Например, их могут заполнить строительным мусором и зацементировать.

Щели между плитами тоже могут изолироваться по-разному:

• минватой,
• бетонным раствором,
• строительным мусором.

Все эти варианты допустимы. Сверху на утепленные плиты следует уложить пароизоляционный материал, чтобы избежать скопления конденсата.

Видео по теме статьи

Что можно и нельзя делать с плитами перекрытия, подскажет видео:

Заключение

Ленточный фундамент может быть накрыт различными способами. Один из них – установка готовых плит перекрытий. Такой вариант отличается повышенной надежностью и скоростью проведения всех работ. А поверхность плитного основания получается идеально ровной, что очень удобно для следующих этапов строительства.

Но такой вариант обустройства пола первого этажа обходится недешево, к тому же он требует усиленной прочности фундамента, привлечения рабочей силы и использования спецтехники.

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The concrete slab is generally positioned on a layer of sand in order to improve drainage conditions and to act as a cushion. 90003 90002 A concrete slab does not have a crawlspace underneath it.This type of foundation differs from house foundations with basements in this respect: There is no space under the floor. Basements are typically found up North, whether it gets very cold. 90003 90002 A concrete slab foundation is most commonly constructed on property that has been graded, as it should be. It is very important that the soil be graded because if it’s not, the foundation could sink or settle due to poor soil compaction. 90003 90008 Advantages Of Slab Foundations: 90009 90020 90021 One of their many benefits is that these foundations are generally less expensive to construct that pier and foundations.Since wooden members such as floor joists are not required, as they are with pier and beam structures, that price is eliminated. 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That’s because there is no space under the slab for mold to form or rodents to nest. 90022 90021 They allow for a wider range of flooring options, including stained or scored concrete. 90022 90031 90008 Disadvantages Of Slab Foundations: 90009 90020 90021 The fact that they lack a crawlspace beneath them means that there is no space under the concrete slab that can be used for storage or for placing and concealing utility equipment.As a result, all ventilation, as well as all duct work, must be installed inside walls or up in the attic area. 90022 90021 Because the plumbing for the house is located below the concrete slab foundation, plumbing leaks require that any repairs be made by jack hammering the slab in order to fix the leak. This can create a large mess, and is also expensive to have done. Because plumbing leaks are under the slab, you may not be able to detect them until you notice that you have an especially high water bill.90022 90021 Cracks can be an issue because the slab is made of concrete. It’s important to learn why concrete slab foundations crack. Even though concrete is extremely strong, it is prone to cracking due to variations in weather and moisture. It is important to water around these foundations and maintain a constant moisture level. 90022 90031 90008 When To Have Slab Service: 90009 90002 If your house has foundation settlement or slab fractures, you may need foundation service. Schedule a free estimate.90003.90000 Things You Should Know about Cracks in Slab Foundation 90001 90002 PUBLISHED: September 15th 2017 • 6 MINS READ 90003 90002 Concrete slabs are essential to the structural stability and design of modern buildings. A single, thick concrete slab is often used as the foundation for large buildings — called «90005 Slab-on-Grade Foundation 90006» — resting on compacted subsoil and ensuring the building stays level. 90003 90002 In terms of function, concrete slabs act as both the foundation for the ground floor, as well as the upper slabs that may act as ceilings.Concrete slabs are crucial and serve multiple purposes. This article will give you answers on how to fix cracks in cement slab foundation. 90003 90002 Besides providing a flat surface, they also bear the load of the structure above them and act as sound insulators for heat and fire. In fact, the gaps between the slabs often provide for insulated and safe spaces for building facilities like electrical and plumbing systems. 90003 90002 90013 90003 90002 The slab is poured such that it is thicker at the edges, with reinforcing rods used to strengthen the extremities and retain its structural integrity.Depending on the weather and environment, there may also be a layer of crushed gravel underneath the slab to drain excess water, which if not properly attended to can cause cracking. Inserting a wire mesh in the slab at the time of pouring reduces the likelihood of cracking. 90003 90017 Common Signs of Foundation Problems 90018 90019 90020 Foundation cracks, wall / floor cracks and other forms of fractures 90021 90020 Foundation settling or sinking 90021 90020 Foundation upheaval 90021 90020 Doors that stick or do not open and close properly 90021 90020 Gaps around window frames or exterior doors 90021 90020 Sagging or uneven floors 90021 90020 A damp crawl space in a pier and beam house 90021 90020 Counters and cabinets separating from the wall 90021 90036 90017 Warning Signs of Foundation Problems 90018 90039 1.Exterior Cracks 90040 90002 There could be small cracks on the exterior walls or on the steps which are nothing that you should make you worry. While if you notice large and zig-zag pattern cracks then there is something definitely wrong with your foundation. Brick cracks or bricks that protrude should be checked from time to time. 90003 90039 2. Interior Sheetrock Cracks 90040 90002 You should inspect your home and check whether there are interior sheetrock cracks that are zig-zagging and end at the top of the wall.Ensure that you call a contractor if the wallpaper is pulling away from the wall and if there are cracks at the junction of the ceiling and the wall. 90003 90039 3. Doors Out of Square and Uneven Floors 90040 90002 There are only a few homes that are plumb after the settling but you should look out for doors out of square and cracks in the wall above it should be looked into. There are lots of owners that have spilt water on uneven floors only to see the water roll in one direction. But, you should only be worried if the gradient of the floor is more than one or two inches for every 15 feet.90003 90039 4. Door Frame / Window Frame Separation from Brick 90040 90002 Another thing that you should look out for is whether the window or door frame pulls away from the brick wall as this is a sign of a trouble in the foundation. 90003 90039 5. Rotten Wood — Pier & Beams 90040 90002 A bad foundation could be seen in the rotten wood of piers and beams which is never a good sign. When the humidity of the basement or crawlspace is too high, a flood has taken place or beams are attacked by termites then it is never a good sign.90003 90039 6. Bouncing floors — Rotten Wood 90040 90002 You should know that your foundation is in trouble if there are bouncing floors caused by rotten wood. In case the floors resemble trampolines then you should get them professionally checked. 90003 90039 7. Tile Cracks 90040 90002 Tiles can be quite hard but also brittle when they are kept at a high temperature. There are several things that can cause tiles to crack but too many cracks in the bathroom, kitchen or other places could mean that there is a crack in slab foundation problem.90003 90039 8. Expansion Joint Separation 90040 90002 When there is expansion joints installed in structures to compensate for movement caused by shifting of the earth, humidity, temperature, events and wind. A failing foundation could cause expansion joint separation that causes joint fails. This causes widespread caracking and this could cause the foundation to fail. 90003 90039 9. Nails Pop Out of Drywall 90040 90002 Even though the sight of the nails popping out of drywall could be harmless and easily fixed.In case it is widespread then you should call a professional in. 90003 90039 10. Walls Pull Away From the House 90040 90002 Usually, a building contractor should be contacted immediately if you notice that the exterior wall is actually pulling away from the house. In case the wall is not fixed then the wall would collapse. 90003 90002 Only On HomeWarrantyReviews.com 90003 90002 Total Home Protection presents 90003 90002 $ 100 off and 2 months free! 90003 90085 90002 If the soil underneath the foundation starts to shift then there are parts of the foundation that could sink into the ground.This leads to the foundation tilting and no longer being flat against the ground. In time, cracks would appear around areas that have been affected by the shift in the soil. There would be a number of reasons why there are cracks in the foundation which includes seasonal climate changes. This makes it not safe to assume that your house is settling simply because there are cracks in the foundation. 90003 90002 You can expect shrinkage and cracks in the slab foundation and these are very common.They usually do not compromise the structural integrity of the home. Due to humidity, things like wood floors, trim, wood framing can shrink and get acclimated to lower inside humidity. Similarly with temperature changes, expansion and contraction can happen daily and seasonally. 90003 90002 Homes are designed for nearly 1 inch of soil movement. But, in highly expansive soil areas, slab foundations can be designed for soil movement up to 4 inches. 90003 90002 If the foundation moves, the structure moves and this causes a degree of cracking, distortion and racking.Here, a foundation should be created to maintain structural integrity but cracks are normal. 90003 90017 90005 Types of Cracks in Slab Foundation: 90006 90018 90019 90020 90005 Hairline Cracks 90006 90021 90020 90005 Plastic Shrinkage 90006 90021 90020 90005 Pop-Outs 90006 90021 90020 90005 Crazing 90006 90021 90020 90005 Scaling 90006 90021 90020 90005 Spalling 90006 90021 90020 90005 D-cracking 90006 90021 90020 90005 Offset Cracking 90006 90021 90036 90002 Concrete is used in foundations because of its durability and strength, but it is not a fool-proof material.Factors ranging from the type of soil to the weather conditions can cause dangerous cracks to appear in foundational slabs. 90003 90002 Broadly speaking, cracks are classified as either active or dormant. Active cracks change over time, widening and moving in various directions, whereas dormant cracks stay the same. The danger in both cases is that cracks can channel moisture and cause damage, requiring increasing amounts of repair the longer they go unchecked. The danger posed by a crack in slab foundation depends on its direction, width, and depth.Further, the risk of cracking varies between cured, uncured and reinforced concrete. Below are some specific types of cracks that are found in slab foundations. 90003 90136 90005 1) Hairline Cracks 90006 90139 90002 These are extremely thin but possibly deep cracks. They are primarily caused by the concrete settling while it cures. If a hairline crack in slab foundation is deep, it can lead to wider, more severe cracking inside the slab over time. 90003 90136 90005 2) Plastic Shrinkage 90006 90139 90002 These cracks also occur when the concrete is cured incorrectly, i.e., if the surface dries much faster than the inner layers of the slab. The cracks typically reach halfway through the concrete, are quite short and seem to occur randomly across the surface. 90003 90136 90005 3) Pop-Outs 90006 90139 90002 These are depressions in the surface of the slab. They occur when the aggregate (the material originally mixed in with the cement, like sand) from a portion of the slab’s surface is absorbent enough to expand and ‘pop out’ of the surface of the concrete, leaving a gap behind.90003 90136 90005 4) Crazing 90006 90139 90002 Another surface phenomenon caused by uneven drying during curing, but much shallower than other such cracks, so the damage is not very serious. 90003 90136 90005 5) Scaling 90006 90139 90002 Over time and with poor protection from water (delamination), the concrete absorbs the water and is forced to expand when temperatures drop below freezing. Alternatively, air pockets trapped near the surface can also cause this expansion. Pieces of the surface crack and are pushed out, causing small, shallow blisters that riddle the concrete surface.This could mean a crack in slab foundation. 90003 90136 90005 6) Spalling 90006 90139 90002 Yet another kind of surface depression, but larger and deeper than scaling. These can be linear when occurring along a rebar and are usually caused by poor joint construction or rusting rebars inside the concrete. Rust is expansive and can thus create pressure that causes damage to the slab. The presence of moisture exacerbates the corrosion, and this worsens if the spalling is severe enough to expose the metal.90003 90136 90005 7) D-cracking or Durability Cracking 90006 90139 90002 These cracks take several years to form and occur well beneath the surface. The repeated freezing and thawing of moisture inside the foundation gradually wears on the aggregate and crumbles the concrete, making it quite vulnerable once the cracks are visible on the surface. 90003 90136 90005 8) Offset Cracking 90006 90139 90002 Offset cracks cause a difference of height in the concrete on either side of the crack.In most cases, this is due to an uneven seat for the slab itself, such as poorly compacted subsoil, invasive pressure from tree roots, previous concrete slabs that have not been removed, or repeated expansions and contractions in the rebar. 90003 90002 While many causes for foundation cracking have been illustrated above, it is useful to know the common weather and environmental phenomena that result in such damage. This can help you head off cracks in the foundation by knowing what to expect in such circumstances.90003 90039 90005 1) Exposure to the Elements and Weathering 90006 90040 90002 Most commonly, cracks in the foundation are out of your control and can be attributed almost wholly to sudden and extreme changes in weather. 90003 90136 90005 A) Snow 90006 90139 90002 Accumulated snow near the building can melt and create a sudden flood. If the foundation already contains cracks, even thin ones, the water will enter and widen them in time. 90003 90136 90005 B) Drought 90006 90139 90002 A reduction in the moisture of the subsoil can cause it to shrink and move further away from the foundation.This creates a gap between the soil and the foundation, leading to possibly dangerous slab movement if the foundation is not adequately supported by other means. 90003 90136 90005 C) Expansive Soil 90006 90139 90002 Some soils have a large capacity to absorb moisture and are heavily affected by it. High moisture could expand the soil below the foundation and heave the concrete slab. The damage can vary, and with evenly compacted soil, it could even be negligible. 90003 90136 90005 D) Consolidating Soil 90006 90139 90002 This phenomenon is the opposite of expansion in soil.While the result is similar to that of a drought — i.e., that the soil cleaves away from the foundation — the cause is a property of the soil itself, and can therefore occur even with normal weather patterns. 90003 90136 90005 E) Storms and Heavy Rain 90006 90139 90002 Flooding after by a storm can suddenly increase the moisture content of the soil and expand it, forcing the subsoil up against the foundation and causing it to become uneven or crack. 90003 90136 90005 E) Tree roots 90006 90139 90002 When tree roots extend under or around the foundation, they soak up moisture from the soil, causing it to shrink away from the slab or in some way alter the stability of the foundation.90003 90039 90005 2) Faults in Construction 90006 90040 90002 Negligence on behalf of the constructors can also cause crack in slab foundation and land your home in trouble. 90003 90136 90005 A) Plumbing Leaks 90006 90139 90002 Leaks in the house that make their way to the foundation tend to worsen any expansive soil problem, because this supplies more water to the soil, which in turn expands upwards. 90003 90136 90005 B) Poor Construction 90006 90139 90002 This category includes any use of substandard incompatible materials or a badly planned process of pouring out the 90005 slab foundation 90006.Mixed brands or strengths of cement, incorrect cement-aggregate ratios, uneven curing or reinforcement of the concrete, all contribute to the appearance of cracks. 90003 90136 90005 C) Poor Soil Preparation 90006 90139 90002 The soil upon which the foundation slab is to be placed must be compacted as much as possible. In case the soil is itself unsuitable, crushed rock or gravel should be used to stabilize the foundation and ensure that moisture does not cause any of the soil-related problems listed above.If this is not done, or if the soil is not properly compacted, the slab will likely become unstable over time. 90003 90136 90005 D) Bad Drainage 90006 90139 90002 Leaks or poorly planned drains can cause the slab and subsoil to come into contact with excess water. Regularly cleaning the gutters and ensuring that waste water is led far from the building are simple preventive measures to keep the slab and soil away from too much moisture. 90003 90260 90002 It is possible to repair a few small or shallow cracks in the foundation by yourself, but only after successfully identifying it.As discussed above, seemingly thin cracks can be indicative of a larger problem, and should then be left to professionals. Further, if the slab has a large number of small cracks or cracks wider than 1/4 inch, it would have to be inspected by a structural engineer. For extreme cases, it may be necessary to seek the advice of a geotechnical engineer, in order to tackle more fundamental problems. 90003 90002 It is important to remember that although concrete is primarily rigid, it does have some capacity to accommodate tension and flexibility, as it naturally expands and contracts according to the surrounding temperature.Hence, when repairing a crack, it’s best to use a similarly strong but flexible material. 90003 90039 90005 Repairing a Minor Crack in Slab Foundation Right at Home 90006 90040 90002 90270 90003 90002 90005 Step 1 90006 90003 90002 Clear the area of ​​any loose chips. For a small crack in slab foundation, this can be done with a steel brush or any hard-edged tool. For wider cracks, you may have to use power tools or a large chisel to properly chip away loose material. 90003 90002 90005 Step 2 90006 90003 90002 Mixing the dry patch powder with latex instead of water gives it the necessary elasticity mentioned above.Such products tend to be fast-drying, so it’s best to mix small amounts at a time. This is the best way to fix cracks in cement slab foundation. 90003 90002 If you do not have material for a vinyl concrete patch, mix cement and sand in a 1: 3 ratio, and add a concrete bonding agent until you have a smooth semi-solid mix. Add more bonding agent to small amounts of the mix as you apply it to the crack. 90003 90002 90005 Step 3 90006 90003 90002 Dampen the crack with water before applying the patch.This allows the patch to retain its moisture (and thus set properly), instead of having it soaked up by the surrounding concrete. If it loses its moisture too quickly, the patch may itself crack, being unable to bond properly with the concrete. 90003 90002 This should solve all issues pertaining to a small crack in slab foundation. Similarly, this is procedure required to rectify a hairline crack in concrete slab foundation. Make sure to clean your tools as soon as possible to avoid the patching compound drying on them.90003 90039 90005 Levelling and Major Repairs 90006 90040 90136 90005 1) How can an unbalanced foundation be leveled? 90006 90139 90002 90303 90003 90002 The main methods for fixing sunken foundations are 90306 slab-jacking 90307 and 90306 piering 90307 (also known as hydraulic jacking). 90003 90002 In slab-jacking, grout (a coarse mix of gravel, cement, and lime, for large scale use) is pumped under the slab through strategically made holes, to lift the foundation and restore it to its original or intended elevation.In piering, steel posts are inserted into the unstable soil for reinforcement, and hydraulic jacks are used to stabilize concrete slabs if the subsoil has caused movement. 90003 90002 Slab-jacking is better suited to leveling out smaller slabs of poured concrete because the placement of the holes is more likely to be accurate. Plus, the lime content in the grout will have a stabilizing effect on the subsoil around it. Piering or hydraulic jacking is a more expensive but sure-fire method of dealing with larger slabs, because the beams and footing are used independent of the soil.90003 90136 90005 2) What is the best repair method for a cracked concrete foundation? 90006 90139 90002 A low-pressure injection using either epoxy or polyurethane resin is the ideal method. The important thing in both temporary and permanent solutions is to prevent more moisture getting into the crack. The injection procedure outlined above will fill the crack from end to end, thus completely sealing the crack. Going further, using polyurethane foam will help you fill any gaps beneath the surface.90003 90039 90005 Costs and Coverage 90006 90040 90136 90005 1) How much does it cost to level a concrete foundation? 90006 90139 90002 There are several variables, so ultimately the best people to ask is usually the company you are planning to hire. The factors which affect the cost of repair are many and varied, but some things you will inevitably have to pay for are a structural engineer, a geotechnical (soil) engineer, and a building permit. Other costs depend on your location and details of the problem, such as seismic work (if your area is earthquake-prone), subterranean obstacles like tree roots or damaged footings.The number of holes you need drilled (for slab-jacking), or the number of piers you will need for the job (depending on the size of the building). Usually, residential foundation repairs take as long as 2 to 3 days while some jobs take significantly longer. The cost of structural failure and repairs is based on the type of foundation. This makes the cost range from $ 20,000 to $ 100,000 on the initial cost of lifting. 90003 90136 90005 2) Does my Homeowner’s Insurance include foundation repair? 90006 90139 90002 That largely depends on the cause of the problem.Foundation problems brought about by flooding due to household plumbing accidents usually fall under coverage. Read your policy or contact your provider to be certain. 90003 90039 90005 Signs of Other Foundation Flaws 90006 90040 90002 While there is always likely to be a harmless (negligible) amount of unevenness to the foundation slab, it is worth watching out for some tell-tale signs of instability. Inside the house, look for doors that used to close properly, but now get jammed, or windows that have a similar problem.Check if there is a gap between the door and frame at one end but not at the other. These could indicate an uneven foundation. If you have foundation walls or piers, check to see if they are perfectly straight and not bowed. 90342 90003 90017 Home Warranties and Cracked Slabs 90018 90002 Usually, after cracks appear in your foundation, you begin to wonder if it is covered under home warranties. Home Warranties offer several services in their contracts. Homebuilders, however, provide the assurance for a year after purchase of a new home.Normally, it is builders ‘warranties that cover foundation, bad wiring, plumbing and structural issues. But, in case of keeping your home appliances and systems in working condition, you must have a home warranty. 90342 Do take a look at the reviews on home warranty companies to determine which home warranty fits the bill. Take a look at the top home warranty provider companies in the business. 90003 90002 If you have any doubts, simply send us your questions in the comments section. We’re all ears to helping you figure out the best home warranty for you with the a home warranty provider.Do take a look at those companies that have gone out of business to ensure that you sign up for the right one. 90003 90351 Victoria Baeker 90002 Content specialist at ConsumEra. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit, sed do eiusmod tempor incididunt ut labore et dolore magna aliqua. Ut enim ad minim veniam. 90003 .90000 Slab-on-Grade Foundation Detail & Insulation, Building Guide 90001 90002 That is a common question, and a hot topic that often brings dissagreement, but we like that though! So much so that we have a page highlighting the pros and cons, check it out — 90003 90002 90005 Slab on Grade or Foundation and Basement; Which is Best? 90006 90003 90002 But to address your questions specifically, I’ve included your questions in the response to make it easier for both of us — 90003 90002 90005 1.Cost — I know a slab is cheaper but having a basement that we can finish allows for a smaller footprint with less walls and roof material. Is there a big difference in cost? 90006 90003 90002 We have typically found above-grade walls to be a more affordable building option, but no, it is not a huge difference. A basement will result in a much higher excavation cost to begin with, but also, concrete is a more expensive structural material compared to wood, so an above grade wall assembly can usually achieve a higher performance level for a lower cost since you can use wood as the structure.Yes, you will have a greater amount of above grade wall to build, but as mentioned, that can cost less than the same amount of below grade wall. 90003 90002 On the other hand, there are ICF advocates (insulated concrete forms) that would argue in favour of basements, including bottom to top ICF walls; those builders would argue there is not a great difference in cost. 90003 90002 Personally, I would not base the decision as much on cost as a few other issues, namely: durability, quality of life, and ecological impact.Cement manufacturing emits a significant amount of greenhouse gases, and sand that is suitable for concrete production is becoming an increasingly scarce global resource, where wood is renewable. that’s why we as an organization like to promote the more sustainable options, and limiting the use of concrete is a large part of that, ergo we like slabs. 90003 90002 As for durability — basements walls can not dry to the exterior, so more caution must be taken in designing and building walls below grade.Also, basements flood, that’s just a part of life. We can take steps to mitigate that with drainage and sump pumps with battery backup systems in case of power failure during storms, but it is impossible to predict levels of precipitation long into the future except to say that it does not look good. If your house is above grade and not in a flood plain, you will never have to worry about it flooding. 90003 90002 90005 2. Access for mechanical — I can not get my head around having to embed drains, plumbing, electrical, etc in concrete as opposed to putting it under floor.Not to mention running ducting for ERV. Is this a valid concern? What if there is a leak in the drains, how would you ever know? 90006 90003 90002 More than being a valid concern is the part about wrapping your head around it, so that’s all relative. I have no problem with embedding the infrastructure in the concrete but I would have a hard time wrapping my head around the idea of ​​digging a hole in the ground to live in it when I could be living above grade. It’s more a matter of what you’re used to, if you go to California for example, you’d have a hard time finding a basement because they build all their houses on slabs and do not give it a second thought.And … if a drain DID have a leak and a the occasional drop made it to the ground below, no you probably would not know, nor would you probably care. 90003 90002 Where concern is valid is — you can not change plumbing in the future so you need to be sure you are happy with the house layout to begin with. In order for a drain to leak you’d have to screw it up in the first place. So hire a licensed plumber and do not worry. As for the water feeds and electrical lines, they should be put into conduits (a sleeve), so if there ever was an issue you can pull them out and replace them.HRV ducting should not be run in the slab, that should be run through walls and ceilings only. 90003 90002 90005 3. What about a hybrid — we do not need a full basement, what are the implications of having half of the footprint as a slab, and half basement? 90006 90003 90002 A hybrid can be done no problem, but it would add cost and building complication, so if it were me I would not do it unless there was a very good reason due to the building terrain a house was to sit on. A hybrid would still leave you with embedding stuff in concrete as well as the durability concerns of a basement, so that sounds to me like it will ensure you are concerned out about it whichever one you choose 🙂 90003 90002 We are currently building a new demo house, on a slab, here is a video of the install if you want to have a peek.It is entirely above grade, and as I write, the house on top is being built, which will be insulated with cellulose (recycled news print). 90037 Here are some other pages on slabs for your interest. Do not hesitate to write back with more concerns, we love slabs and are happy to keep the discussion going. 90003 90002 90003.90000 Exterior Edge Insulation for Existing Foundation Slabs 90001 90002 90003 2009 — 2018 IECC and IRC Minimum Insulation Requirements: 90004 The minimum insulation requirements for ceilings, walls, floors, and foundations in new homes, as listed in the 2009 2012 2015 року, and 2018 IECC and IRC, can be found in this table. 90005 90002 90003 90008 2009 90009, 90004 90003 90008 2012 90009 90004 90003, and 90004 90003 90008 2015 IECC 90009 90004 90005 90002 Section R402.2.9 (R402.2.10 in 2018 IECC), Slab-on-grade floors. Slab insulation requirements are shown in Table R402.1.1 (Table R402.1.2 in 2015 IECC). R-5 must be added to the requirement for heated slabs. The insulation depth is to the depth of the footing or 2 feet, whichever is less in Climate Zones 1-3 (for heated slabs). 90005 90002 90003 90008 2018 IECC 90009 90004 90005 90002 R402.2.10. Slab insulation requirements are shown in Table R402.1.2. R-5 insulation shall be provided under the full slab area of ​​a heated slab in addition to the required slab edge insulation R-value for slabs as indicated in the table.The slab edge insulation for heated slabs shall not be required to extend below the slab. 90005 90002 90005 90002 90003 2015 90004 90003 and 90004 90003 2018 IECC 90004 90005 90002 See Residential Chapter 5 for requirements regarding additions, alternations, and repairs to existing buildings. 90005 90002 90003 Retrofit: 90008 2009 90009, 90008 2012 90009, 90008 2015 90009, and 90008 2018 IECC 90009 90004 90005 90002 Section R101.4.3 (Section R501.1.1 in 2015 and 2018 IECC).Additions, alterations, renovations, or repairs shall conform to the provisions of this code, without requiring the unaltered portions of the existing building to comply with this code. (See code for additional requirements and exceptions.) 90005 90002 90003 90008 2009 90009, 90008 2012 90009, and 90008 2015 IRC 90009 90004 90005 90002 Table N1102.1.1 (Table N1102.1.2 in 2015 IRC). Slab insulation requirements are shown in Table below. R-5 must be added to the requirement for heated slabs.The insulation depth is to the depth of the footing or 2 feet, whichever is less in Climate Zones 1-3 (for heated slabs). 90005 90002 90003 90008 2018 IRC 90009 90004 90005 90002 Table N1102.1.2. Slab insulation requirements are shown in the Table below. R-5 insulation shall be provided under the full slab area of ​​a heated slab in addition to the required slab edge insulation R-value for slabs as indicated in the table. The slab edge insulation for heated slabs shall not be required to extend below the slab.90005 90002 90003 Retrofit: 90008 2009 90009, 90008 2012 90009, 90008 2015 90009, and 90008 2018 IRC 90009 90004 90005 90002 Section N1101.3 (Section N1107.1.1 in 2015 and 2018 IRC). Additions, alterations, renovations, or repairs shall conform to the provisions of this code, without requiring the unaltered portions of the existing building to comply with this code. (See code for additional requirements and exceptions.) 90005 90002 Appendix J regulates the repair, renovation, alteration, and reconstruction of existing buildings and is intended to encourage their continued safe use.90005 .