Как утеплить фундамент снаружи: чем и как лучше утеплить?

Утепление фундамента дома снаружи – лучший метод сбережения основы здания

Утепление фундамента дома снаружи – лучший метод сбережения основы здания

Когда вы решаете вопросы тепловой защиты дома в комплексе, среди разных вариантов владельцы и подрядчики чаще всего отдают предпочтение популярному методу утепления фундамента дома снаружи пенополистиролом.

Есть и остальные техники, но в отличие от стенового утепления, тут применяют не все стандартные материалы для тепловой изоляции – особенности условий применения и куда больший круг задач накладывают некоторые ограничения.

Так как основание имеет не просто подземную часть, иногда требуется применять комбинацию определенных технологий. Как и чем прикрывать фундамент снаружи, чтобы уменьшать тепловые потери, рассмотрим в статье.

Зачем произвести утепление фундамента?

Потери тепла через основание небольшие – примерно 5-15%. Сказывается его положение, а также физические особенности тепловой передачи. Есть лишь три метода передачи энергии тепла – радиация, конвекция (для жидкой и газовой среды) и тепловая проводимость. Радиация точно не про фундамент, а при устройства отопительной системы. Они обладают более высокой температурой в сравнении с воздухом и предметами окружения, а еще служат источниками, а не как приемники.

А вот стены отапливаемого помещения в зимнее время года способны излучать на улицу энерги. в спектре инфракрасного типа. Чтобы увидеть этот фон, требуется лишь посмотреть в тепловизор на них. Он крайне яркий в неутепленных зонах и мостах холода. Конвекция естественного типа характеризуется всходящим тепловым потоком воздуха и нисходящим – холодным. Естественно, что температура фундамента не может сказывать на таком процессе. Тут важно утеплять потолок и крышу, чтобы они быстро не остудили теплый воздух. Из перечисленных выше методов передачи энергии тепла именно за счет тепловой проводимости материалов конструкции, прохладных фундамент сказывается на потере тепла и тратах на отопление дома.

А тепловая проводимость железобетона, из которого, как правило, делают фундамент, достаточно высокая, и потому его низкая температура передается на несущие перегородки и стены. Воздух в комнате остывает из-за ограждающих конструкций, которые будут отдавать тепло окружающему миру. Для подземного элемента основания это грунт, для стен и цоколя это воздух. Утепление фундамента снизит такие потери.

В видео вы подробнее узнаете про тепловые потери здания и каковы цели утепления фундамента. Но есть еще одна функция тепловой изоляции основания постройки – увеличивается срок эксплуатации фундамента. У стройматериалов есть определенный критерий, а именно устойчивость к морозам. Его цифровое выражение будет обозначать, сколько циклов заморозки (при условии насыщенности водой) должно пройти до того, как появятся хоть маленькие признаки разрушения. По этой причине для регионов с длинной и прохладной зимой утепление и гидроизоляция основания – обязательное условие для того, чтобы обеспечивать прочность и долговечность конструкции.

Подробности

Материалы

Есть ли две разновидности фундамента, которые будут подлежать утеплению – ленточный и плитный. Для свайных и столбчатых оснований можно говорить про теплоизоляцию пола на первом этаже и забирки, а точнее цоколя – в какой-то степени экрана, который будет защищать подпол. А вот сами столбы и сваи не утепляют.

Плита

Технология по утеплению основания плиты ничем не отличаются от тепловой изоляции бетонных полов по земле:

• Твердое основание из утрамбованной земле.
• Геомембрана в роли защиты от капиллярного подъема вод в грунте.
• Подушка из песка и щебня для того, чтобы улучшать несущие способности земли и правильно распределять нагрузку.
• Рулонный тип гидроизоляции.
• Утеплитель листового типа (ЭППС, то есть пенополистирол).
• Плита.

Шведы могли немного усовершенствовать технологию и на стадии заливки фундамента монтируют в плиты «теплый пол». У нас его очень часто делают его как раньше – в бетонной стяжке или под финальным напольным покрытием. Скандинавы – народ скучноватый и уже заранее знают, где у них будут стоять не только перегородки, а еще и предметы мебели (один из критериев правильного функционирования теплых полов). У русских людей характер и менталитет иной – они не просто предметы мебели, но даже стены внутри квартиры/дома часто переносят с одного места на другое.

Фундамент ленточного типа

Утепление фундамента снаружи своими руками имеет огромный выбор технологий и материалов:

• Несъемный тип опалубки.
• Крепление пенопластовых листов или даже экструдированного пенополистирола.
• Напыление посредством жидким пенополиуретаном.
• Засыпка керамзитом.

Среди материалов для утепления основания отсутствуют лишь один популярный материал для тепловой изоляции – минеральная вата. При наполнении водой каждый ее вид будет терять свои свойства тепловой изоляции. И хотя она не просто прекрасно впитывает, а еще с легкостью отдает влагу, для основания не получится создавать условия по ее выветриванию.

Техника утепления ленточного фундамента Каждая разновидность утеплителя имеет определенные особенности, которые будут диктовать методы его применения.

Технологии

Опалубка несъемного типа

Это единственный метод для утепления, который возможен лишь на стадии возведения монолитного фундамента ленточного типа. По сути, эту технологию можно называть «2 в 1», когда опалубка из материалов для тепловой изоляции остается, как конструкционная часть по окончанию строительства. При этом несъемная опалубка будет решать сразу 2 задачи – как сделать теплее основание дома внутри и снаружи. Конструктивно же есть две разновидность – щитовая и блочная. При заливке фундамента ленточного типа применяют щиты, и блоки обладают стенками, а еще поперечные перемычки большой ширины, а это существенно уменьшает прочность основание из железобетона. Делают такую опалубку из различных материалов, но чаще всего производят утепление основания снаружи посредством пенополистирола (простым или экструдированным). Помимо стандартной технологии, есть еще и комбинированная, когда плиты не нужно связывать между собой, а прикрепляют их к съемной опалубке.

После того, как сделана обратная засыпка пазухи около подземной части основания, готовят корытце для отмостки из утрамбованной земли. А дальше все делаем по простой схеме – щебенка, песок, пленка для гидроизоляции, утеплитель (пенополистирольные плиты), опалубка, армирование и заливка бетоном. Вместе последнего можно применять плиточку для тротуаров или гравий, то утепление отмостки, как элемент основных работ – обязательно.

Утепление пенополистиролом

В отличие вышеописанного способа, утепляют уже существующее основание, и потому присутствует лишь внешний тип утеплителя. Работы проводят и при строительном процессе, и даже при реконструкции/ремонтных работах дома. Сложнее всего проводить работы при ремонте. Перед тем, как утеплить основание дома со стороны улицы, требуется откопать и очистить от земли ленты до пятки. Далее этапы проходят в такой последовательности:

1. Производят гидроизоляцию – для начала следует нанести битумный праймер, а после снизу в верх приклеивают или напаивают полоски рулонного материала с перехлестом швов.

Обратите внимание, что мастики битумного типа лучше не применять вместе с утеплителями листового типа – они весьма текучие и не дают надежность крепления плит на раствор клея.

1. Далее требуется подготовить клеевой состав на базе цемента, и посредством него можно закрепить плиты к основанию. В части надземного типа вовсе необязательно дополнительное фиксирование дюбелями – лишь на цоколе. Прямой метод крепления плит посредством механических креплений без раствора клея недопустимо – клеевой состав сможет послужить в роли прокладки между битумом и пенополистиролом, который является негативной средой для полимеров.
2. После обратного засыпания и изготовления отмосток проводят финишную отделку цокольного помещения – наносят слой клеевого состава, а также армируют стекловолоконной сеткой, а еще оштукатуривают или облицовывают плиточкой.

Рассмотрим еще один метод утепления фундамента снаружи.

Утепление пенополиуретаном (напыляемым)

Среди всех утеплителей полимерного типа напыляемый пенополиуретан является самым дорогостоящим видом. Его достоинство в том, что у слоя тепловой изоляции нет швов, а вспененный полиуретан имеет прекрасное сцепление со всеми видами строительных материалов. нанесение пенополиуретана на очищенную поверхность от грязи проходит крайне быстро. Есть пару видов материалов – двухкомпонентные и однокомпонентные. В первом случае требуется профессиональное оборудование, и его работа будет заключаться в подаче под давлением в рабочую головку двух составляющих, где будет происходить смешивание и вспенивание. Однокомпонентный материал выпускают в аэрозольных литровых баллончиках, и правильно обращаться с ними сможет даже новичок. Но эта технология прекрасна для малого фронта работ, или, когда требуется наносить малый слой с толщиной до 20 мм.

Если земля сухая, то уровень верховодки низкий и выполнены грамотные работы по дренажу, то гидроизоляцию фундамента и цоколя можно не проводить – швов нет, а поглощение воды застывшей пены из полиуретана малое (не больше 2%). При отделке цокольного помещения штукатуркой армирование не требуется – нет стыков, как у пенопластовых плит, а значит, нет предпосылок для появления трещин. Помимо стоимости у пенополиуретана есть маленький недостаток, который является следствием одного из плюсов – прекрасное сцепление. При проведении работ по утеплению цокольного помещения требуется защитить стены, которые обладают финишной отделкой (или же не требуют ее) – это куда проще, чем счищать застывающую пену.

Утепление керамзитом

В последнее время для того, чтобы утеплять фундамент, такой насыпной материал применяют редко. Его применение ограничивают два фактора – достаточно высокие, в сравнении с полимерными типами утеплителей, тепловая проводимость и водопоглощение. Первый показатель будет лежать в пределах от 8 до 20% от общего объема. При этом такое поглощение воды характерно для «свежего» керамзита – спустя время он станет выше. К сравнению, у простого пенопласта он не более 4%. По этой причине требуется и гидроизоляция фундамента, и лишь слой утеплителя. обеспечивать идеальную герметичность керамзиту невозможно, а просыхать под землей, укутанный пленкой, он будет на протяжении длительного времени – его использование не рекомендовано в условиях высокого подъема грунтовых вод в весенний сезон.

Тепловая проводимость еще не соответствует современным требованиям по тепловой защите зданий – от 0.07 до 0.18 (Вт/с*^ОС) против показателя в 0.02 до 0.04 у пенополиуретана, у ППС/ЭППС 0.03-0.04. По этой причине рекомендованная толщина насыпной тепловой изоляции для наших средних широт будет лежать в пределах от 0.4 до 0.6 метров. Схема по утеплению будет выглядеть так:

1. Требуется вырыть траншею расчетной ширины (или важно расчищать пазуху котлована) до самой пятки основания.
2. Далее требуется укладка гидроизоляционной пленки по всей площади траншеи – фундамент, дно и стена.
3. После засыпают и выравнивают керамзит.
4. Накройте пленкой сверху.
5. Насыпьте слой песка.
6. Сделайте отмостку.

Преимущество керамзита – это небольшая стоимость и экологичность. Но с учетом гидроизоляции и огромного объема материалов, цена работ в итоге оказывается не такой низкой. Помимо того, цоколь потребуется утеплить одним из указанных выше способов.

Заключение

Подбор определенного материала и как именно утеплить фундамент дома будет зависеть от большинства условий – строительство или ремонтные работы, влажные или сухие грунты, глубина промерзаний и пучение, бюджет и объем работ, глубина и конструкция закладывания фундамента. По этой причине подобную задачу должны решать исключительно профессионалы.

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This strategy has the added benefit of minimizing the danger of contaminants (from car exhaust, paint, solvents, gardening supplies, etc.) In the garage migrating into the conditioned space. Also install an air barrier to prevent cold air in the garage from «short circuiting» the insulation underneath the subfloor. 90005 .90000 How to Insulate Basement Walls 90001 90002 A few generations ago, many houses did not have basements. They had cellars. Damp and musty, their dirt floors provided cool, consistent temperatures that were ideal for storing perishables like apples, jellies, fruit preserves and pickled vegetables. 90003 90002 With the evolution of building construction and poured concrete foundations, however, basements are now considered integral to a home’s living space.They typically house the furnace, water heater, laundry machines and essential utilities. But recent trends have expanded the unfinished basement’s utilitarian role into a more feature-rich, family-friendly environment such as a game room, home theater, office, craft or exercise area. 90003 90002 Because basements are mostly located below ground level, they are by nature cool and damp. They can also account for significant heat loss from a home. Porous foundations can allow cold air and water to seep in; flooding or bad drainage can allow water to run in through cracks.90003 90002 That’s where insulation comes in. Installed properly, insulation allows us to make basements comfortable, limit escaping heat and help keep moisture at bay. 90003 90002 But before launching your own basement transformation, consider some basics of basement insulation. There are three ways to insulate a basement: from the outside, from the middle of the foundation itself and from the inside of the structure. Both external and middle insulation are typically done during the construction of the house, although external insulation can be done in conjunction with a drainage project aimed at keeping water away from the foundation.90003 90002 Unless the house is still in the planning phase, insulating a basement from the inside is usually the most practical way to go. That’s what we’ll focus on in this article: interior insulation. The good news — it’s the most cost-effective way to insulate a basement. The bad news — if it’s not done properly, it can result in moisture problems. 90003 90002 Read on to learn about the tools you need to insulate basement walls. 90003 .90000 How to Insulate Shed Floor: Existing and New Construction 90001 90002 Building a shed and want to keep it cool in the summer and warm in the winter? A friend of mine was turning his shed into a small bunkie for his kids. Since he lives in a cold climate, he wanted to know 90003 how to insulate a shed floor 90004. I told him about several options, and he ultimately ended up lifting the entire structure up to install insulation. 90005 90002 When standing in your shed in the dead of winter, it’s impossible not to notice the chill coming up through your feet.Tons of heat is lost as the cold from the earth sucks whatever warmth your walls and ceiling managed to trap. Insulating your shed floor is the answer. 90005 90002 90003 Insulating a shed floor is straightforward. Do not get distracted by all the fancy insulation products out there — keep it simple and you can do the job in an afternoon. Here’s how: 90004 90005 90012 90013 90003 Remove the flooring of your shed 90004 90016 90013 90003 Put wood blocks under each joist cavity 90004 90016 90013 90003 Each joist cavity should have at least two support blocks 90004 90016 90013 90003 Set up a table saw, or use a handheld jigsaw 90004 90016 90013 90003 Cut XPS rigid foam insulation to fit between your floor joists 90004 90016 90013 90003 Layer insulation flush to the top of joists 90004 90016 90013 90003 Re-install flooring 90004 90016 90041 90042 Types of Insulation 90043 90002 90045 90045 90047 When insulating a shed floor, it is hard not to be overwhelmed by the number of choices available.Eco-friendly products such as lamb’s wool and denim are gaining popularity, but the price point negates their viability for a shed. 90005 90002 Let’s take a look at the different types of insulation available for use in a shed floor, along with the pros and cons each offers when installing in a shed floor. 90005 90051 Fiberglass 90052 90002 90054 90054 Fiberglass insulation is still the most popular insulation on the market, despite some of the itchy drawbacks. It offers a high R-value and cuts well.On top of that, the fiberglass is not expensive. 90005 90002 Insulating shed walls and ceilings with fiberglass is not a bad idea, as some fiberglass insulation comes with facing. Facing covers both sides of the insulation with paper or plastic, which makes it much easier to handle. 90005 90002 If fiberglass is a good choice for ceilings and walls in your shed, then why not your floor? The floor of your shed is the most likely spot that you will encounter moisture. 90005 90002 Whether the moisture is caused by you, the ground, or outside elements, the floor will get wet at some point.Fiberglass does not like water and it causes it to lose R-value. As well, rodents have been known to make nests in fiberglass and I’ve known raccoons to eat it! 90005 90002 If you choose fiberglass for your floor, then you’ll want to seal it tightly on both sides. If you do, you’ll still run the risk of little critters getting in — it’s inevitable. Once they do, it’s hard to get them out. 90005 90002 Pros 90005 90012 90013 Cheap 90016 90013 Offers high R-value 90016 90013 Comes with optional facing 90016 90041 90002 Cons 90005 90012 90013 Does not like moisture 90016 90013 Rodents will dig through it 90016 90013 Difficult to handle 90016 90041 90051 Rigid Foam Board 90052 90002 90088 90088 Rigid foam board looks a lot like styrofoam — and some of these products actually are styrofoam.However, the type we are looking at is an XPS foam, which stands for extruded polystyrene. 90005 90002 Rigid foam is great for floors because it does not lose its thickness over time. While batts typically have some elasticity that wears off over time, XPS does not. When cut to fit snug in a space, you can bank on that foam staying there forever. 90005 90002 Foam is also moisture repellant — it will not absorb water. If it gets wet, it will not lose much, if any, R-value. This makes it a great choice for floors.90005 90002 As well, rodents have a hard time making nests in XPS. It can happen, but you will not find extensive networks of mice tunnels like you would in fiberglass or Rock wool. 90005 90002 Pros 90005 90012 90013 Easy to cut 90016 90013 Moisture resistant 90016 90013 Rigid for life of the product 90016 90041 90002 Cons 90005 90012 90013 More expensive than fiberglass 90016 90013 Requires more cutting than batts 90016 90041 90051 Spray Foam 90052 90117 90117 Spray foam insulation is an effective, but more expensive, solution for floor insulation in your shed.One of the drawbacks for spray foam is that you need backing for it to adhere to the surface. 90002 If you are installing insulation on a pre-built shed, you can not simply drill a hole in the floor and pump it full of spray foam. Unless you installed sheathing or plywood on the underside of the joists, the foam will have nothing to adhere to. 90005 90002 However, on a new build, spray foam is the best choice for R-value. Spray foam offers the highest efficiency, as there are zero gaps around edges that would allow cold air or moisture in.90005 90002 You can do spray foam yourself, with a kit from a big box store. They are expensive, however, and likely not worth the cost unless you are making your shed into a tiny house or sleep shed. 90005 90002 There are two types of spray foam: closed cell and open cell. The more expensive, two canister spray foam kits at your local hardware store are usually closed cell. 90005 90002 As the name suggests, they have encapsulated air pockets, which resist moisture absorption and provide a vapor barrier for your shed.Use this for your shed floor as the open cell is not durable enough to withstand exposure. 90005 90002 Pros 90005 90012 90013 Best possible R-value 90016 90013 Moisture barrier 90016 90013 DIY installation 90016 90041 90002 Cons 90005 90012 90013 Most expensive option 90016 90013 Labour intensive 90016 90013 Not ideal for pre-built sheds 90016 90041 90051 Mineral Wool 90052 90002 90152 90152 Mineral fiber insulation is similar to fiberglass in that it comes in batts and handles much like fiberglass.The benefit of mineral fiber is that it is much easier to handle. 90005 90002 Mineral fiber does not have the itchiness of fiberglass and is also easier to cut. A simple hand or drywall saw makes nice, straight cuts. 90005 90002 Much like fiberglass, mineral fiber does not appreciate moisture. While mineral fiber is made up of crushed rock and other materials, moisture can get trapped in the batts causing them to compress or sag. Compression and sagging result in air gaps around batts and compresses gaps within the batts, reducing R-value.90005 90002 Pros 90005 90012 90013 Easy to handle 90016 90013 Cost-effective 90016 90013 Provides snug fit between joists 90016 90041 90002 Cons 90005 90012 90013 Not moisture repellant 90016 90013 Rodents can dig through batts 90016 90041 90042 How To Insulate Shed Floor 90043 90051 Insulating a Pre-built Shed Floor 90052 90002 Chances are you already have a shed that does not have an insulated floor. Whether you bought one from Home Depot already built or you made it yourself, insulating a shed floor often gets overlooked.How do you put insulation in your pre-built shed? 90005 90002 There are a couple of methods to install insulation in your pre-built shed. If you can take the floor off, then insulating from the top is easiest. However, if you can not remove your floor, because it is nailed in or has a finished floor, then you’ll have to go underneath. We’ll take a look at the various methods, below. 90005 90185 How to Insulate a Floor from the Top 90186 90002 Insulating a shed floor from the top is by far the easiest method to insulate your floor.I recommend XPS rigid foam for this installation, as it is the best option for use at or near grade. Here’s how to insulate your shed floor from the top. 90005 90189 90013 Remove the subfloor in your shed. This requires moving everything out of your shed and will be the most labor-intensive part of your install. 90016 90013 Before you install the rigid foam, you are going to need some wood blocks beneath each space between the gaps to ensure the rigid foam does not fall out beneath the shed. While it does fit snug between joists, movement from above may jar it loose.90016 90194 90002 Alternatively, you can nail small scraps of wood to each corner of the joist cavity, at the bottom. These will function as shelves for the rigid foam to sit on. 90005 90197 90013 Next, it is time to measure each joist cavity. An exact measurement will ensure your insulation fits tight for optimal R-value. 90016 90013 Cut your pieces of foam. Use a table saw or handheld jigsaw to cut. A cordless jigsaw is ideal as you’ll be cutting from 4 × 8 foot pieces. Remember, you can always cut smaller, but you can not make a piece bigger if you cut too much.90016 90013 Install the foam. XPS comes in 2 «, 1.5», and 1 «thick pieces. The thickness you get depends on the width of your joists. If you have 2 × 6 or 2 × 8 joists, then using 2 «panels and layering them is ideal. Each XPS 2 «panel is R10, so if you have three, then you have a value of R30, which is excellent. 90016 90013 Re-install your floor. If you have a slight gap between the top of your foam and the top of the joists, it’s fine. An enclosed air gap also serves as an insulator. 90016 90194 90185 Other Methods for Installing from the Top 90186 90002 Insulated floor tiles are also an option for insulating from the top.If you do not want to pull up your floor, and can not get under your shed, then floor tiles provide some insulation. 90005 90002 They usually lock into place and are very easy to handle. They will not provide as much R-value as batts or XPS, but they offer a sturdy alternative. 90005 90002 If you do not want to put foam between your joists, why not put it over the top of the joists? If you have plenty of headroom in your shed, then layering a few sheets of XPS over the joists is possible. You’ll have to adjust your door openings and attach your subfloor through the insulation into the joists.90005 90002 Finally, you can install fiberglass or mineral fiber batts instead of rigid foam between your joists. This is not ideal because the batts are not as moisture resistant as XPS. Rodents are also more fond of batts, and having batts exposed to the outside on one side is not ideal. 90005 90185 How to Insulate a Shed Floor from the Bottom 90186 90002 Insulating a pre-built shed from the bottom is not always the easiest, but it can save you from removing your floor and emptying all the gear from your shed.Unless your shed is raised enough so that you can get under it, you’ll need to jack the entire structure. 90005 90002 Jacking a shed is not as hard as it sounds, with the right equipment. A farm jack, or automotive floor jack, will easily lift a shed enough so that you can fit under it. Do not use the jack alone — once jacked, be sure to put blocks underneath the shed to support the jack in case of jack failure. 90005 90002 We recommend using batts for this installation. Rigid foam is ideal, but batts are much easier to handle underneath a structure.Let’s take a look at the best way to insulate a pre-built shed from the bottom. 90005 90189 90013 If you need to jack your shed to get under it, then do it now. If you have a particularly large riding mower, consider removing it to make the structure lighter and jacking easier. 90016 90013 Once jacked, get under the shed and measure the joist cavities. 90016 90013 Use fiberglass or mineral fiber batts and cut them to size to fit each cavity. Use batts sized to fit your joist width. If you have 2 × 8 joists, you could opt for two layers of 2 × 4 batts.90016 90013 Install batts — make sure they fit snug but are not compressed. Compression removes internal air gaps and reduces R-value. 90016 90013 Once batts are installed, you’ll want to enclose the joist cavity with OSB sheathing, treated plywood, or hardware cloth. I recommend hardware cloth, as it only requires a stapler and you can overlap layers. Hauling a large sheet of plywood underneath a cramped space is difficult, at best. 90016 90013 Staple hardware cloth onto joist bottoms. Use lots of staples.Overlap hardware cloth by at least an inch to ensure all cavities are protected from rodents. 90016 90194 90185 Other Methods 90186 90002 Spray foam is another method to use when insulating from the bottom. If you have a tractor or other machine that can lift the shed, then you can use spray foam. 90005 90002 Although expensive, spray foam is by far the best insulating option for a structure. Once the spray foam is on, install hardware cloth or treated plywood. 90005 90002 Rigid foam is another option, and much cheaper than spray foam.If you can jack your shed up enough, then XPS foam is ideal. Use cheap metal strapping or run several strips of treated strapping across the bottom to hold rigid foam in place. 90005 90002 Another option is using a radiant barrier. Radiant barrier looks much like foil bubble wrap. It provides decent R-value at minimal size. It installs with staples and is easy to handle. 90005 90002 It does not offer much insulation value, but when installed in joist cavities, provides a barrier between ground and shed.90005 90002 90252 90252 90005 90051 Insulating a Shed Floor: New Construction 90052 90002 Installing insulation in a shed floor is simple when done during initial construction. When framing your floor, consider adding sheathing or treated plywood underneath your joists. This will allow you to safely add any type of insulation, without worrying about excessive amounts of moisture or rodents getting in. 90005 90002 If you are like my friend and wanting to make your shed habitable for people during the winter, then you’ll want a vapor barrier between the batts in the floor and the structure.When you heat the inside of the structure, you’ll want to ensure the moisture in the shed does not get into the batts below. 90005 90002 I recommend the use of closed cell spray foam for new construction. Closed cell foam is ideal if you have a larger budget. 90005 90002 You can raise one side of the shed and apply spray foam to one side, then do the same to the other side. If you can not afford closed cell spray foam, rigid foam or fiberglass batts are a good second option. 90005 90002 Installing closed cell spray foam in a cold climate requires a minimum of R-30 in your shed floor, for a heated space.Each inch of spray equals roughly R-6. Therefore, you’ll need at least 5 layers to achieve R-30. Here’s how to apply spray foam to the floor of your shed construction. 90005 90189 90013 After framing your shed floor, install your flooring. 90016 90013 Lift one side of shed structure, high enough that you can access at least half of the structure to spray. Begin spraying your foam. 90016 90013 When finished with one side, slowly lower and lift the other side. Spray the other side. 90016 90013 Enclosing each side with hardware cloth is a good idea.Once your spray foam sets, lift each side again and staple hardware cloth over the entirety of the underside of the shed. Make sure you overlap each row by an inch. 90016 90194 90002 90003 Other Methods for New Construction 90004 90005 90002 Rigid Foam between joists is also an option. However, batts offer a higher R-value and since the cavities are enclosed, you will not have to worry about moisture or rodents like you would if the cavities were open at the bottom. For this reason, rigid foam should be a secondary option in new construction.90005 90002 Using fiberglass batts and sealing the bottom with treated plywood or OSB sheathing is a great option for a small shed. Since you can flip the floor frame of a small shed over, you can easily screw sheathing into the bottom after you install the batts. The low price of fiberglass negates the cost of using sheathing on the bottom of your shed. 90005 90002 If your new shed is on a concrete slab, you’ll want to ensure your slab is over rigid foam panels. Depending on how you construct your shed on the slab.90005 90002 If you raise your shed on joists, then you can use the above methods to insulate joist cavities. If the shed is directly on the slab, then you can put insulated floor panels over the concrete. 90005 90042 Conclusion 90043 90002 However, you decide to insulate your shed, remember that moisture is your greatest enemy. Moisture negates R-value and introduces issues like mold and rot to your structure. Ensuring a secure joist cavity is critical when installing any type of insulation.90005 90002 As always, I hope you’ve found this guide helpful. Please share any comments or suggestions below and best of luck with insulating the floor of your new, or old, shed. 90005 90295 90295 90002 Eugene has been a DIY enthusiast for most of his life and loves being creative while inspiring creativity in others. He is passionately interested in home improvement, renovation and woodworking. 90005.90000 Drains and Foundations: Prevention or Repair? 90001 90002 Are you in an emergency situation? Is there a foot of water in your basement? You have to act fast, and properly. The procedure for restoring the basement will depend on what kind of water it is and where it came from. Rainwater or snowmelt, for example, will be easier to deal with than water from a sewer backup or a river that has burst its banks. 90003 90002 There are three steps to a proper response: 90003 90006 If there is flooding, put safety first 90007 90002 Make sure there is no risk of electrocution.90003 90010 90011 Wear rubber boots. 90012 90011 Cut the power to the flooded parts of the house. 90012 90011 Unplug all appliances and other electrical devices there. 90012 90017 90006 Report the incident 90007 90002 First your insurer, then the city, and then other resources! 90003 90022 Your insurer 90023 90002 Report the damage to your insurer immediately, following these few steps. Visual evidence (photos, video) can be very useful to help the insurer rapidly assess the situation.If, for example, you have home insurance with CAA-Quebec and you took the «Water damage» option when you bought your policy, you are covered for water damage. 90003 90010 90011 Get authorization quickly to proceed with removal of framework, insulation, as well as wall and floor coverings. 90012 90017 90002 Read this advice from 90003 90002 CAA-Quebec’s home insurance experts 90003 90022 Municipality and utilities 90023 90002 Report the incident, if need be, to the municipality as well as to any utilities / providers affected (e.g., Hydro-Québec, Gaz Métro, phone company). 90003 90006 Proceed with post-disaster work 90007 90002 Quick action is required to limit the damage. For best results, entrust the work to experts. 90003 90022 Take action within 48 hours 90023 90002 This will ensure that mould does not proliferate on surfaces and in voids, crevices, etc. If you decide to mop up the initial damage, make sure you wear rubber gloves and boots, a breathing mask, and safety glasses to guard against contamination.90003 90022 Entrust the clean-up job to an expert firm … 90023 90002 It is highly recommended that you hire a reliable post-disaster clean-up company, especially if decontamination is needed. They have the knowledge and equipment necessary to act effectively and limit the impacts. If necessary, they will demolish water-damaged gypsum wallboard and flooring to speed up the drying-out process. 90003 90022 … and the restoration as well! 90023 90002 Once the basement is cleaned, you can start rebuilding yourself, if you want.But consider the benefits of doing business with a company that has a general contractor’s licence: the work will be guaranteed, completed in a timely manner, and compliant with the required codes, with your home’s full property value maintained. 90003.