Как сделать шпунтованную доску своими руками: пошаговая инструкция с фото и видео

строганная, дубовая, из лиственницы, видео-инструкция по монтажу своими руками, укладка, производство, изготовление, как сделать ручным фрезером, фото и цена

Все фото из статьи

Строганная шпунтованная доска является распространенным строительным материалом, так как дерево является экологичным, прочным и в то же время долговечным материалом. К тому же благодаря наличию шпунта упрощается процесс его монтажа. Ниже мы подробней ознакомимся с особенностями шпунтовой доски и областями ее использования, а также рассмотрим, на что обращать внимание при выборе и как ее сделать самостоятельно.

Шпунтованные доски

Общие сведения

Итак, главной особенностью этого материала является наличие шипа и паза. Собственно, это замковое соединение и делает данный его таким популярным. Благодаря шпунту доски плотно и надежно состыковываются друг с другом, образуя сплошную поверхность без щелей.

Надо сказать, что подобную систему соединения можно встретить в таких материалах, как:

• паркет;
• ламинат;
• ПВХ панели и пр.

Также существует и еще одна отличительная черта этого пиломатериала, которая заключается в обработке – лицевая его сторона чаще всего тщательно отшлифована. Обратная же сторона может быть неотшлифованной.

Достоинства

Среди положительных качеств шпунтованной доски можно выделить следующие моменты:

• является экологически чистым и паропроницаемым материалом, что делает его отличным отделочным покрытием;
• хорошая долговечность даже при наружном использовании, что достигается современными технологиями обработки;
• низкая теплопроводность, благодаря чему материал обладает неплохими теплоизоляционными качествами;

Укладка шпунтованной доски на пол

• как уже было сказано выше,монтаж шпунтованной доски осуществляется очень просто благодаря замковому соединению;
• обладает привлекательным внешним видом.

В результате этих достоинств, шпунтовая доска и получила широкое распространение в строительстве.

Недостатки

Что касается имеющихся недостатков, то они относятся ко всем пиломатериалам:

• высокая цена, по сравнению с искусственными аналогами;
• склонность к короблению, которая исключается правильным выбором материала и соблюдением технологии монтажа;
• потребность в периодической обработке – покрытии лаком или покраске.

Шпунтовые доски для отделки стен

Область применения

Рассматриваемый пиломатериал чаще всего используется в качестве отделочного покрытия. В частности, традиционная область его применения – это обустройство дощатого пола. С помощью шпунтованной доски можно постелить как простильный пол, т.е. из длинных досок, так и наборной – из коротких.

Также этот пиломатериал применяется для отделки стен. Правда, стеновые панели, как правило, отличаются профилем лицевой стороны, имитирующим брус. Поэтому доска шпунтованная для стен еще называется имитацией бруса.

Небольшой домик из шпунтовой доски

Следует отметить, что имитацию бруса можно использовать не только для обшивки стен, но даже для строительства домов. Принцип их возведения напоминает строительство из обычного бруса. Дощатый домик может использоваться как дачный или садовый для временного проживания.

Правда, существует технология, которая позволяет построить дом из шпунтованной доски даже для постоянного проживания. Принцип ее заключается в возведении двойных стен, между которыми укладывается теплоизолятор.

Пример соединения«двойного бруса» при строительстве стен

Еще такую технологию называют строительством из двойного бруса. В итоге получается теплое и в то же время достаточно прочное жилье.

На что обращать внимание при выборе

Чтобы приобрести качественный пиломатериал при выборе необходимо обращать внимание на следующие моменты:

1. влажность – должна быть в пределах 12-16 процентов, в противном случае материал может деформироваться;
2. породу древесины – от этого зависит стоимость материала и его эксплуатационные качества.

Чаще всего доски изготавливают из следующих пород:

• ель и сосна – являются наиболее дешевым пиломатериалом, обладающим неплохими эксплуатационными качествами;
• кедр – обладает привлекательным внешним видом, кроме того, древесина известна своими бактерицидными свойствами, что делает ее отличным отделочным материалом;

Пиломатериал из лиственницы

• лиственница – отличается устойчивостью к воздействию влаги и неподверженностью гниению. Поэтому шпунтованная доска из лиственницы отлично подходит для наружной отделки;
• дуб –обладает рядом положительных качеств, среди которых можно выделить прочность и долговечность. Однако,дубовая шпунтованная доска является наиболее дорогой;

3. наличие сучков и прочих дефектов – пиломатериал с подобными недостатками стоит дешевле, однако, следует учитывать, что сучки не только влияют на внешний вид доски, но и ее прочность;
4. рисунок – играет важную роль для отделочного материала;
5. толщина – зависит от предназначения пиломатериала. К примеру, для отделки стен можно использовать покрытие толщиной в 1-2 см, для пола на лагах и возведения стен понадобится более толстая доска.

Совет! Для определения влажности  древесины необязательно иметь специальный прибор. Дело в том, что сухие доски имеют блестящую поверхность. А если по ним постучать, они издадут звонкий звук.

Производство шпунтованной доски

Самостоятельное изготовление

Производство шпунтованной доски в промышленных масштабах осуществляется на высокоточном автоматическом оборудовании. Всеми процессами при этом управляет программа, поэтому человек лишь их контролирует.

В домашних условиях добиться такого же качества невозможно, однако, выполнить элементарное шпунтование вполне реально. И далее мы рассмотрим,как сделать шпунтованную доску своими руками.

Для этого понадобятся следующие инструменты:

• ручной фрезер;
• рулетка и карандаш.

Итак, изготовление шпунтованной доски своими руками осуществляется в такой последовательности:

• перед тем как сделать шпунтованную доску ручным фрезером необходимо подобрать подходящий пиломатериал, который должен быть сухим и без признаков гнили или поражения грибками;
• если пиломатериал сырой, его необходимо просушить – уложить штабелями в сухом помещении на подставки. На просушку обычно уходит несколько месяцев. Срок зависит от породы и толщины дерева;
• подготовленную доску нужно своими руками закрепить на рабочей поверхности при помощи струбцин;

На фото – выполнение паза фрезером

• далее надо выполнить разметку карандашом, предварительно наметив оси кромок;
• в одной из кромок следует выбрать фрезером четвертной паз;
• в противоположно кромке при помощи фуганка или фрезера нужно выбрать четверти с двух сторон, в результате чего образуется шип;
• по такой же схеме обрабатываются все остальные доски.

Обратите внимание! Дерево нельзя сушить на солнце, так как внешняя сторона быстро просохнет, а внутренняя будет оставаться влажной, что может привести к возникновению различных дефектов.

На этом работа завершена. Следует отметить, что самостоятельное шпунтование является кропотливым занятием, требующим умения обращаться с деревом и электроинструментом.

После изготовления материала выполняется укладка шпунтованной доски своими руками на пол или ее крепление на стену. В любом случае данная процедура заключается в соединении досок между собой и фиксации саморезами к основанию.

Вот, собственно, и вся основная информация о данном пиломатериале.

Вывод

Главной особенностью шпунтованной доски является наличие паза и шипа для надежного соединения материала между собой. Это позволяет применять его в самых разных областях строительства. Единственное, при выборе доски для тех или иных целей следует учитывать ее толщину и другие некоторые параметры, так как в одних случаях оптимальным вариантом может быть шпунтованная доска 20 мм, а в других –потребуется более толстый пиломатериал.

Ознакомиться с дополнительной полезной информацией по озвученной теме вы можете из видео в этой статье.

90000 Table under the washbasin with your own hands — manufacture and drawings | With Your Hands 90001 90002 Of course, it is not easy to make such a table. It is necessary not only to have a good command of the instrument, but also to be able to accurately produce markup — this is the most difficult part of the work. 90003 90002 But by correctly performing all operations and assembling the whole construction, you will become a happy owner of a truly exclusive product. 90003 90002 The roundings of the table top and the side panel (to protect the wall from splashes) should not be steep and deep — all bends should smoothly move from one to the other.90003 90002 The wall plate is cut by a homemade template made of MDF board (plywood is also good). The legs of the table are at 5 degrees deviated from the vertical, with the rear only in the lateral sides, and the front — in the sides and forward. 90003 90010 90002 See also: Side table to the sofa with your own hands (photo + drawing) 90003 90010 90014 To make a table under the sink you will need the following materials: 90015 90002 4 oak bar 850 x 60 x 60 mm (for scabbard) • 1 oak board 850 x 170 x 35 mm (for the front skirts) • 2 oak boards 420 x 170 x35 mm (for side skirts) • 1 oak board 700 x 100 x 20 mm (for rear yards) • 1 oak shield 2 700 (3 x 900) x 200 x 20 mm • 1 oak board 800 x 100 * 20 mm (for wall guard) • Countersunk head screws 6 x 50 mm and 3 x 18 mm • 6 furniture corners.90003 90014 A table under the sink with own hands — a course of work 90015 90002 1. Cut out along the length (up to 850 mm) and plow to a thickness of 60 mm of bar, designed for making the legs. When plowing the workpiece surfaces with an electric drill, do not approach the planned lines closer than 0,5 mm. 90003 90002 The remaining allowance can then be hand-shoveled. 90003 90002 2. Sort the blanks for the legs according to the pattern of the texture, depending on their position (in front or behind the table).On the front legs, the bevel lines of the upper end are marked at an angle of 85 degrees. Bevel should be directed towards the front facial rib. On the rear legs, the bevel is directed towards the outer edge. Then on the workpiece mark out nests width 12 mm and at a distance of 11,5 mm from the leading edge under the spikes of the yoke. The milling machine with a cylindrical slot mill 0 12 mm is selected by marking out six nests under the spikes except two in the rear legs from the side of the edges directed inwards.Here the width of the nests is 6 mm, and they should be located in 7 mm from the rear edges of the legs. 90003 90002 3. On the edges of the legs mark a rounded transition from the top to the narrowed bottom. 90003 90002 4. Mark the narrowing of the legs. The thickness of the narrowed part of the leg at the top is 40 mm, and at the bottom — 23 mm. 90003 90002 5. After fixing the leg in a vice, the electric jig saws the legs according to the marking. Having made the first cut from the side of one edge, the workpiece is rotated at 90 degrees and sawed from the other edge.90003 90002 6. The marks from the saw blade on the narrowed parts of the feet are removed by grinding. 90003 90002 7. Once again fixing the leg in a vice, the thickened sections of it are pounded to the marking lines. Process smooth junctions with a belt sanding machine. 90003 90002 8. Uncrossing the kargs along the length with a small allowance and outlining their contours, cut down excess. The upper edge of the front rim is labeled to indicate the length of its visible (without the thorns) part, equal to 615 mm.Attaching the mug to the edge of the malk, adjusted to an angle of 85 degrees, make the knife a markup. With the help of a square and a malk carry out a closed line on all edges of the workpiece. The length of the side arms from the shoulder to the shoulder is 360 mm, with the back shoulder at right angles to the top edge. After completing the marking, they form spikes with a desktop disk saw or a small-tooth hacksaw on wood. 90003 90002 9. Round the edges of the thorns and drive them to the nests.If necessary, trim the shoulder. 90003 90002 10. Having convinced of correct landing of shoulders on legs, transfer bevels of legs on the top edges of a mandrel. After disassembly, the upper edges of the king are scraped on the bevel. Marking the curve with a pencil on the vestments of the king. form an electric jig with their lower edge. Gather the substitute dry and check the quality of the parts fit. If there are no comments, connect the parts to the glue and tighten them with clamps. Tightening the clamps, check the rectangularity of the substructure and remove excess glue.90003 90002 11. Cut out 3 workpiece length of 900 mm for the countertop. Orienting along the texture lines, they are laid out so that to minimize the possibility of warping the countertop and that the knots are as possible in the middle — this place still has to be cut under the sink of the washbasin. Select on the edges of blanks narrow grooves under the dowels. Connecting the details on the dowels with the glue, pull the shield clamps. When the glue hardens, the clamps are removed and the countertop is laid on the sub-table so that the overhang is a width of 20 mm on the back side.A profile pencil profile is applied with a soft pencil. To achieve symmetry, first mark one half and, removing the marking on the tracing paper, transfer it to the other side of the countertop. Cut the table top with an electric jigsaw and mark it with a grinder. Finally, the profile of the edge is formed by milling. 90003 90002 12. Making a template from plywood (its shape should correspond to the shape of the leading edge of the countertop), put it on the countertop and evaluate the conformity of their shapes.90003 90002 13. On the template mark out the contours of the wall panel and cut it with a jig saw. Drill from the underside of the table top holes for fastening screws. 90003 90002 14. Laying the table top on the workbench with the front side, set the table on it and attach it to the corner ties. Putting the table on the legs, attach a glue on the glue and screws. Finally, cut the legs from the bottom. On the counter, mark out the hole under the sink, cut it out. Place the sink in place and compact the slots along the contour with silicone sealant.90003 90010 90002 See also: How to make a folding table for a kitchen or a nursery 90003 90010 90054 Table under the sink — photos and drawings 90015 90002 90003 90002 90059 90060 90003 Little table for the bathroom with their own hands 90002 90059 Products made of oak are incompatible with steel and even brass fixtures — when contact with it, the tree loses its natural color. For connection it is better to use brass screws. Holes for them should first be «driven out» with a steel screw and then rolled in brass.90060 90003 90010 90002 TABLE UNDER THE WASHBASIN WITH OWN HANDS — ADVICE TO READERS 90003 90010 90014 Set in the bathroom with their own hands 90015 90002 A friend decided to update the bathroom and asked to make a bedside table and a wall cabinet under the new sink. He gladly agreed to help his friend and, rolling up his sleeves, set to work. 90003 90002 From the planed timber section 50x 50 mm sawed legs (photo 1). From a furniture board 20 mm thick, cut three rectangular blanks — two for the side walls and one for the bottom of the bedside table.90075 Using the thorn groove connection method (photo 2), assembled the sidewall (photo 3). Similarly made the second. 90003 90002 I assembled the pedestal box — on the bottom of the dowels and glue fixed the bottom, and on the top I connected the walls with two crossbars. In the upper frame I made the necessary cuts so that the sink fits tightly on it (photo 4) 90003 DIY Bathroom Furniture 90002 Made the door frames from the furniture panel (photo 5) and screwed them to the hinges to the frame (photo 6) 90075 The back of the nightstand sewn up with plywood.The whole construction is covered with wood impregnation and applied a double layer of varnish. Washbasin ready (photo 7) 90075 By the same principle, he made a hinged locker and decorated it with carved doors. 90075 © Author: Maxim Katunivsky, Komsomolsk. Photo author 90003 90084 90085 TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS. 90086 90087 90088 Below other entries on the topic «How to make your own hands — a householder!» 90089 90090 Tables with own hands — decor The decor of the old table Many have somewhere… 90091 90090 Table console with your own hands How to make a console table -… 90091 90090 Dressing table with your own, female hands How to make a dressing table for … 90091 90090 Do-it-yourself sideboard table in vintage style TABLE IN VINTAGE STYLE UNDER … 90091 90090 Beautiful carved table by own hands — photo and work progress How to make a carved table your … 90091 90090 A table from the drum of a washing machine by one’s own hands How to make a table with your own hands… 90091 90090 A table with a gilded border with his own hands (potal) HOW TO MAKE A TABLE WITH GOLDEN … 90010 90104 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90089 90104 Let’s be friends! 90089 90091.90000 Bunk bed with table with own hands — detailed drawings and production progress | With Your Hands 90001 90002 90003 90002 WHAT DO YOU NEED TO DO WITH YOUR HANDS FOR DOUBLE-BED BED 90003 90002 A simple construction has a full-size mattress above the working area and two shelves. 90003 90002 It saves space by occupying an area of ​​тисячі сімсот тридцять чотири × 2578 mm on the floor. Such a bed will perfectly fit into a children’s room, a student hostel or a small apartment, wherever space is required.The nodes of the structure are connected with the help of fasteners, which makes it easy to disassemble it and move it to another location. 90003 90010 90002 See also: Two-story bed with your own hands — drawings and a list of materials 90003 90010 90014 Start with sturdy bed pillars 90015 90002 1. Eat eight blanks of the specified size for the inner and outer legs A, B. Brief advice! To less strain, turning heavy sheets of plywood, lay them on the floor, laying plates of rigid foam, and cut the workpiece with a circular saw.90003 90002 2. Mark the contours of the inner leg A on the best side of the workpiece (Figure 1). Before marking the rounds, read the «Wizard’s advice». 90003 90002 3. Place another piece of the inner leg with the best side up next to the already marked workpiece, dock the edges and mark the mirror part of the part (photo A). Continue marking in such a way that four pairs of legs with mirror symmetry are obtained. In one pair of legs, the lower protrusions are absent (Figure 1). 90003 90002 4.Drill the eight legs with a jigsaw with a fine-tooth saw blade, leaving an allowance of about 3 mm outside the contour lines. 90003 90002 90003 90002 5. Insert a copy cutter with upper bearing into the collet of the router (see «Wizard’s advice»). By fixing a straight guide along the marking line A on one leg, straighten the edges to the contour lines on the straight parts of the part (photo B). On the curved sections, grind the edges to the lines using a grinding drum. Process in this way one leg with a lower lip and one without it.90003 90002 6. Using the ready-made legs A as templates, remove the milling cuttings on the remaining inner legs A. You should have three pairs of parts with a lower lip and one pair without a protrusion. 90003 90002 7. Mark in accordance with Fig. 2 and saw with the jigsaw eight external legs B, repeating the steps 2-6, but the marking of these details do on the worst side of the workpieces. Turning the inner leg A upwards with the best side, put it on the workpiece of the external leg B, align it along the marking lines, fix it with clamps and cut out the outline of the outer leg (photo C) to get a pair of parts consisting of the inner and outer legs.Mark the details of each pair on the inside so as not to confuse them later, and set aside the outer legs B to the side. 90003 90002 8. Glue and additionally fix the internal legs A to the screws so that four corner assemblies are produced (Fig. 3, photo D). Glue the legs parallel to the front or back of the bed, to the edges of the legs parallel to the ends. Gently align the parts along the entire length of the corner. 90003 90002 9. Glue the external legs B to the assemblies of the inner legs A (photo E) by placing the best side of the plywood from the outside.90003 90002 90037 Selection of plywood for making a bed with a ladder and table 90038 90003 90002 In order to save and improve the appearance, we made a bed of 19-millimeter coniferous plywood grade A-C (I / III), one side of which has no defects, and the other is covered with low-grade veneer. If you are planning to paint a finished structure, we recommend buying more expensive birch plywood, so that the finish is impeccable. Mark the details so that the best side of the plywood is outside.Knots in the inner layers sometimes form voids on the edges of the sawed parts, which need to be filled with putty to improve the appearance. 90003 90014 Assemble the frame of a bunk bed 90015 90002 1. Drill the outer end crossbars C, D, then the inner end bars E, F of the specified width, but leave the allowance 25 mm along the length. 90003 90002 2. Secure the clamps with external clamps C, D between the front leg A / B, which does not have a lower lip, and the rear leg with a ledge. 90003 90002 3.Mark in place the final length of the inner end beams E, F (photo F) and cut them by the marks. 90003 90002 4. Glue the inner end bars E, F to the corresponding outer crossbars C, D (photo G). Repeat the steps 2-4 for the other pair of A / B legs. 90003 90002 5. Saw the external longitudinal bars G, H of the specified dimensions, and the corresponding crossbeams I, J with the allowance 25 mm along the length. 90003 90002 6. Secure the clamps with external longitudinal bars G, H between the end assemblies AF.Mark in place the final length of the inner crossbeams I, J, as was done with the end bars in step 3. 90003 90002 7. Glue the inner crossbars I, J to the corresponding outer crossbeams (G, H), but not to the legs. When the glue dries, remove the crossbeams and grind the grooves for the screw ties (see «How to install the screeds»). 90003 90002 8. Connect the legs A / B, the upper and lower end crossbars C / E, D / F, the upper longitudinal crossbar G / I and the lower rear crossbar H / I, fastening them with screw ties (Fig.4 and 4a). Drill the holes for the connecting bolts (photo H) in the indicated places and insert the 30-millimeter bolts securing the parts C, D, G and H to the inner legs A. The rest of the bolts will be required when installing the headboard , footboard and side panels. 90003 90002 90061 Wizard’s advice: Take a larger milling cutter 90062 90003 90002 When milling the template, the part can be damaged if the guide bearing of the milling cuts into the void on the plywood edge. To avoid such trouble, use a larger-diameter copying cutter with a wide bearing resting on several layers of plywood veneer, unlike the narrow bearing of a small cutter.90003 90014 Make a bed 90015 90002 1. Saw end, short and longitudinal support bars K, L, M with bevels at the ends (Figure 4). Cut along the outer lower edge of each rail a fillet radius of 12 mm (Figure 4a). 90003 90002 2. Using glue and screws, fix the longitudinal support bars M on the inner side of the upper rungs I, aligning the bottom edge (Fig. 4). The end slats K to fix with screws, without gluing, along the bottom edge of the upper end beams E, screwing also the screws into the legs A.Attach the short L rails to the legs using glue and screws. 90003 90002 3. Drill wide and narrow bars N, O. Mesh 6-millimetric fillets along the edges on both sides. 90003 90002 4. Drill and count out two mounting holes at both ends of each N, O bar, and then fasten the strips to the longitudinal and short support rails of the L, M screws as shown in Fig. 5. Do not glue the straps. 90003 90002 5. Having drunk large and small panels P, Q, put them on top of the slats (Figure 5). 90003 90002 6.Drill the side boards R, the head S and the foot T of the specified dimensions and shapes (Fig. 5 and 6). Mark the upper arc of the headboard S with a flexible pattern. To mark the rounding, use a small coin. Arrange the parts as indicated, and fasten them with screws, without applying glue. 90003 90002 7. Through the 9-millimetric holes of the AJ frame, free from the holes, drill holes in the side boards R, the headboard S and the foot T (figure 5). Insert the 50-millimeter bolts and tighten them to secure the parts.90003 90002 90003 90014 Add workstation 90015 90002 1. Saw end plates U. Temporarily fixing them with clamps in place (Figure 5), note the final length of the longitudinal bars V. 90003 90002 2. Drill the oblique holes-pockets at both ends of the longitudinal strips V from the inside. Assemble the frame, fixing the end and longitudinal straps with glue and screws. 90003 90002 3. Attach the frame U / V to the frame A-T only with screws, without using glue (Fig. 5). 90003 90002 4. Saw the worktop W of the specified dimensions and mesh the 10-millimetric fillets along the leading edge on both sides (Figure 7).90003 90002 5. Gently glue the table top to the frame from the U / V bars, making sure that it does not stick to the AT frame. 90003 90010 90002 See also: Children’s double bed with their own hands — drawings 90003 90010 90014 Build a ladder 90015 90002 Note. If there is not enough space to place the ladder shown in this project, make a simple step ladder with crossbeams to get into the bed. 90003 90002 1. Saw the blanks for the outer and inner string X, Y. 90003 90002 2. Mark the steps from the top end of the outer bow string X.Using a large carpenter, mark the back edge of the string and the position of the upper step (Figure 8, photo I). 90003 90002 3. Fix a pair of special stops on the carpenter’s corner to mark the steps (photo J). If there are no such stops, or they can not be found, read the Wizard’s advice. 90003 90002 Place the square on the workpiece of string X, pressing the stops against the edge. Align the shoulder of the square, along which the step height (267 mm) is marked, with the intersection of the upper stage line and the bowstring edge.90003 90002 Circle the outer edges of the square with a pencil (photo K). Then move the square along the edge, aligning the edge of the same shoulder with the end of the line of the step that has just been spotted. 90003 90002 Continue the marking to the bottom of the workpiece. In total, four steps should be obtained, and the lower stage should also have a height of 267 mm (Figure 8). Mark the bottom edge of the bowstring with a horizontal line along which you want to cut the angle of the workpiece.90003 90002 4. Using a carpenter’s corner, mark the step of the same width and height on a plywood trim length of about 500 mm, the width of which is equal to the width of the outer bowstring X. Draw a rounding on the inner corner, circling a large can with a pencil. Cut out the contours with an electric jigsaw, leaving a small allowance near the lines. Smooth the edges smoothly to the lines to use this cut as a template for marking and milling. 90003 90002 5. On the plywood template, mark the corners of the inner corners on the outer string X, as shown in photo L.90003 90002 6. Carefully cut the outer string X with a jigsaw while driving the cutter next to the line. After fixing the plywood template on each step, finalize the edges of the bowstring with the milling cutter. 90003 90002 7. Attach the clamped outer string X to the workpiece for the second outer bowstring, placing the best sides of the plywood inside. Circle the prepared string and remove it. Drill the second string with a jigsaw, leaving a small allowance. Then, using the finished string, as a template, mesh the second string until the final shape.90003 90002 8. Mark the inner Y-string on the workpieces as shown in Fig. 8, using the external strings X as templates. Saw and milling the internal bowstring. 90003 90002 9. Glue the external strings X to the inner Y to get two pairs, placing the best side of the plywood from the outside. 90003 90014 Assemble the ladder of the bed 90015 90002 90003 90002 1. Drill the external bars Z with the allowance of 25 mm in length. Then, grab the inner crossbeams AA, the outer pillars BB and the internal pillars of the SS size.90003 90002 2. Mark out the outer pillars BB (Figure 8) and cut them into shape. 90003 90002 3. Glue together the X / Y bowstring, the inner cross bars AA, the outer pillars BB and the inner pillars of the SS, fixing the assembly with clamps. Mark in place the final length of the external bars Z, adjusting to the distance between the outer pillars BB and external strings X, opilite on the marks and paste into place (Figure 9). 90003 90002 4. Drill the upper stage DD, the middle shelf-step EE, the lower shelf-stage FF and the small steps GG of the indicated sizes.Shape the fillets with a radius of 6 mm along the leading edge on both sides of each part. 90003 90002 5. Replace the lower and middle shelf-steps FF, EE, fixing them with screws (Figure 9). 90003 90002 6. Saw the middle and bottom edge straps HH, II with the allowance 25 mm. Fit their length in place and glue to the middle and bottom shelf-steps (Figure 9, photo M). 90003 90002 7. Add the upper stage DD and two small steps GG (Figure 9). 90003 90014 Finishing and final assembly of a bunk bed 90015 90002 90003 90002 1.For convenience of work, disassemble the structure into separate parts. First, we primed all the surfaces with shellac, and then several times sprayed nitro-lacquer. You can paint the plywood with stain or paint. 90003 90002 2. When the coating dries, reassemble the bed, transferring it to the final installation site. You can attach the ladder with screws, screwing them through the X / Y strings and BB / SS pillars into the A / B feet. 90003 90002 3. The assembled structure should be located at the wall, so attach the handrail to the wall with a special fastener designed for this purpose.90003 90002 90061 How to install floor screeds 90062 90003 90002 Screw fasteners used to fasten large panels are recessed into milled grooves and tightly tighten legs and crossbeams, however, they make it possible to disassemble the frame if necessary (Figure 3 and 4). 90003 90002 To install them, make the template shown in the figure. Drill a hole, cut a slit width 10 mm with a saw. 90003 90002 To work with the template, place the 6-millimeter straight cutter in the collet and fix the copying sleeve with a diameter of 10 mm in the sole.90003 90002 Align the template in the middle of the width of the inner crossbar E, F, I, J, aligning the end of the slot with the end of the part, as shown in the photo, and securely secure. 90003 90002 Grind the groove over the entire thickness of the inner crossbar in a few shallow passes. Make such depressions at both ends of the inner crossbeams. 90003 90002 With the crossbar in place, mark the groove location on the adjacent inner leg A. Align the template to the marks and grind the recess in the foot.90003 90002 90061 Advice of the master: Spring clamps instead of special stops 90062 90003 90002 To mark the steps on the external string X, without any stops, take the usual spring clips and fasten them on the shoulders of the carpenter’s square. Be careful and careful that they do not move, and double-check the dimensions of the divisions on the angles before marking out each step. 90003 90010 90002 See also: Bed with sleeping place at the top and closet-pantry downstairs 90003 90010 90182 Detailed drawings of a bunk bed for making your own hands 90015 90184 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90002 90003 90204 90205 TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP.FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS. 90206 90207 90208 Below other entries on the topic «How to make your own hands — a householder!» 90209 90210 A carved bed with my own hands — photo How to make your own wooden … 90211 90210 Folding bed with own hands (photo) How to make a folding bed your … 90211 90210 DIY car bed for children (+ DRAWINGS) BED-CAR FERRARI OWN HANDS For the manufacture of … 90211 90210 Children’s double bed with their own hands — drawings Drawings of a children’s bunk bed for… 90211 90210 Bed with sleeping place at the top and closet-pantry downstairs Do-it-yourself pantry bed To save space … 90211 90210 Beds with scarfs with their own hands How to make a baby bed from … 90211 90210 Bed-podium for a mattress made of wood by own hands «Podium» for the mattress ONE OF … 90010 90224 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90209 90224 Let’s be friends! 90209 90211.90000 Folding table-rack with your own hands for the lessons of the child | With Your Hands 90001 90002 90003 90002 If the child is not too spacious, the folding table will be an ideal solution. A great place to practice. Here you can do lessons, draw, craft handmade. When folded, the table does not occupy an area on the floor, and on the wall it takes no more space for it than for a bookshelf. 90003 90006 Learn how to play 90007 90002 Children love toys-transformers. Well, the transformer table just has no chance of not being liked.He will certainly become a source of pride and serve the creative development of the young master or mistress. At all simplicity of the decision, at it at once some original «counters». Firstly, it’s not just a folding table, which is a lot, but a secret organizer. Inside, you can hang a schedule of lessons on shelves among office supplies to hide a piggy bank or a box of secrets … Secondly, the bottom side of the counter is a board — write-draw with chalk what you want. The foldable leg of the tabletop in the raised state «disappears», turning into a frame of the board with a small shelf for chalk.90003 90002 If there is an outlet below, then behind the 3 cm thick chassis, you can also install an LED lamp that will provide the ideal working light. 90003 90002 A compact folding table is also perfect for 1 small kitchens. But in this case, the body is advised to expand to 20 cm, so that on the table opposite each other you can arrange large plates. On the shelves will fit glasses, appliances, jars of spices. 90003 90006 The taste and color … 90007 90002 All the wooden parts in our case were covered with a colorless oil with a hard wax.It provides the surface with reliable protection, it is not accidental that it is used for finishing parquet. Chalkboard is painted in a classic dark green color with a special paint for school boards, creating a matte surface, on which the chalk falls gently. Such here is a «natural», in German or Scandinavian, low-key design. 90003 90002 However, the taste and color of friends is not. You can choose more colorful colors. You will be surprised at how large their palette is. For a board not only traditional black and brown, it can be even pink and yellow (on sale these colors are available).90003 90002 Stylish looks combinations: red body and blue board; white body and a red or black board … 90003 90002 90003 90002 90025 In order to make a folded table with your own hands you will need 90026 90003 90002 • multiplex thickness 15 mm • fiberboard thickness 12 mm • magnetic lock • 4 hinge for hinged cover • lock button • strap for fixing • shelf support • flat dowels of 0 size • paint tape • screws 3,5 x 16 mm • screws with a semicircular head 4 x 16 mm • washers • wood glue • hard wax oil • school board paint • level • folding meter • screwdriver • drills (5 mm, 14 mm) • flat-bottom milling cutter • hand circular saw • grinder • » skins «(No.120 and 180) • clamps • paint rollers 90003 90030 90002 See also: How to make a folding table for a kitchen or a nursery 90003 90030 90006 How to make the body of the folding table 90007 90002 90003 90002 Of course, in a good way, a flat-bladed milling machine is required — with its help choose narrow grooves for flat dowels. If there is such, it is easy to perform reliable invisible connections. 90003 90002 1. The details of the case were cut first. To facilitate the work as a substrate, it is recommended to use a foam block.90003 90002 2. Marked the middle of the notches for flat dowels. The milling machine also has a central marking. 90003 90002 3. The parallel thrust of the flat-nosed milling machine was set approximately half the thickness of the material. Here: 7 mm for wood thickness 15 mm. 90003 90002 4. Eccentric grinders processed all surfaces and edges. First, grinding paper No. 120 was used, then No. 180. 90003 90002 5. Classic wood glue will provide a lasting connection. On the cutouts and flat dowels, as well as on the surface of the joints, apply glue.90003 90002 6. The body of the wall part consists of these nine parts. In the middle there are two inserting shelves, above them there is a small fixed rack. 90003 90002 7. Having spread out on the back side, the parts of the cabinet of the cabinet, on which the glue has been previously applied, were alternately connected. 90003 90002 8. Using two spacers in the corners, we installed a rail for the counter of the countertop — of course, they first applied enough glue on it. 90003 90002 9.After joining, the structure was fixed with clamps. At the same time, they did not forget to check the perpendicularity of the parts. 90003 90006 Folding shelves with your own hands 90007 90002 If the shelves just lay on the holders, they will periodically fall and do not fix the rear panel behind them from the fiberboard. Therefore, the securing of shelves tried to make it more reliable by drilling in them grooves for supports. 90003 90002 90003 90064 ASSEMBLY DIAGRAM (BELOW) 90065 90002 The diagram shows the optimal dimensions.Dimensions of the wall structure (60 x 75 cm) do not make it too bulky and at the same time provide a sufficient amount of countertop. If you want to increase the size of the table, then note that the weight of the product will also increase. Think about whether the child will be able to fold and lay out the table on his own. 90003 90002 Attention! Both plug-in shelves also serve as stiffening ribs, so they should be positioned exactly as shown in the diagram. 90003 90002 1. The shelves were fixed with a clamp precisely above each other and drilled two holes for supports from the ends in the middle of the slot.90003 90002 2. In the lateral parts, blind holes for the support of the shelves were drilled. As a visual depth limiter, the drill was wound with a tape. 90003 90006 Production of table-boards 90007 90002 90003 90002 In the building store it is important not to confuse «paint for school boards» with «chalk paint». Before painting it is necessary to additionally apply magnetic (iron-containing) paint, then on the board it will be possible to fix magnets also. 90003 90002 1. The folding table should be perfectly smooth, the edges also need to be rounded, so they started with grinding.The «skin» No. 180 was used. 90003 90002 2. The assembly was carried out using flat dowels and carpentry glue. Small racks are designed for a shelf for chalk. 90003 90002 3. When painting the boards left an 3 strip on the edge. A frame will be attached to it later. 90003 90002 4. The fiberboard from the front and back was painted with paint for interior work. As a rule, white color is a win-win option … 90003 90002 5. An oil layer with solid wax will protect all parts without clogging the pores of the surface.This will later make it easier to remove traces of chalk-smeared fingers. 90003 90002 6. The frame glued to the board improves the appearance and increases the strength of the structure, and also serves to fasten the foot and connect to the wall part. 90003 90002 7. To the frame of the tabletop screwed outside the hinge with holes for the screws (in each loop there must be at least three holes). 90003 90002 8. On the opposite side, also on the hinges to the tabletop attached a folding leg.90003 90002 9. When connecting to the body, the table top should be located exactly in the middle, otherwise it will touch the side parts when closing. 90003 90006 About locks 90007 90002 90003 90002 As a table leg, and the table top should be provided with locking fasteners. The belt when closed should be slightly taut. 90003 90002 1. The magnetic lock holds the table leg against the board in the closed position. For the magnet, a corresponding blind hole was drilled in the crossbar of the leg.90003 90002 2. Determine the location of the second part of the lock simply by placing a small drawing button on the magnet (you can use a sharp screw). After pressing the foot, the trace from the point will precisely indicate the desired location. 90003 90002 In the vertical position, the table top is fixed with a synthetic strap. To prevent the belt from fraying, its edges were gently burned by fire. 90003 90002 4. The holes under the fasteners were sewed in the strap with a red-hot tip.Two fixing screws were provided with large washers. 90003 90006 Fixing a folding table to the wall 90007 90002 90003 90002 Photo collage, lesson schedule or memo slips — the back of the case from the wall side should be made of a soft fiberboard to use the surface as a note board. 90003 90002 PROGRESS 90003 90002 1. The fixing to the wall (dowel 8 mm) was carried out with the help of rails on the back side of the case. When marking, of course, the building level was used. 90003 90002 2.The rear wall of the soft fiberboard was simply inserted into the enclosed body. It is not attached to the wall or to the hull, only the shelves hold it. 90003 90002 3. Thanks to the recesses for the supports, the shelves can not slip out and securely fix the position of the fiberboard. 90003 90030 90002 See also: Folding table with own hands in the kitchen 90003 90030 90006 Excellent board and not only 90007 90002 90003 90002 Do you think that writing with chalk — just getting dirty? But there is also a paint for the white board, on which you can write flushable markers.There are other options. For example, you can paste a poster on the surface, because a suitable frame is already available. 90003 90002 The mini-shelf for chalk also serves as a handle. It is convenient to grab for it, in order to release the support (table leg) from the magnetic lock when tilting. 90003 90002 Folding and laying out the table is very easy — the child will cope with it. If you want to increase the dimensions indicated on the chart, think carefully: the design may not be very child-friendly.90003 90140 A folding table with your own hands — drawing 90007 90002 90003 90144 90145 TOOLS FOR MASTERS AND MASTERS, AND HOME GOODS ARE VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS. 90146 90147 90064 Below other entries on the topic «How to make your own hands — a householder!» 90065 90150 Folding table with own hands in the kitchen How to make your own folding … 90151 90150 Cockpit table for own picnic How to make a folding table your… 90151 90150 DIY book-table from chipboard: Photo + drawing HOW TO MAKE A FOLDING DESK-BOOK YOURSELF … 90151 90150 How to convert a coffee table into a computer table with your own hands The table itself: from the magazine. .. 90151 90150 How to make a folding table for a kitchen or a nursery DIY folding table What you need … 90151 90150 How to increase the table — make supports: master class + DRAWING IF YOU NEED A BIG TABLE TO SEAT … 90151 90150 Retractable kitchen table with your own hands — photos and drawings How to make a pull-out table on… 90030 90164 Subscribe to updates in our groups and share. 90065 90164 Let’s be friends! 90065 90151.90000 How to make your own DIY scissor lift with plans 90001 90002 How to make a DIY scissor lift 90003 90004 90005 90006 Check out the PS130-2A on Amazon 90004 Recently, after pondering a way to level out long workpieces when working with my small bench drill, I came up with a rough design for what would ultimately become this nifty little gem. 90008 I operate the lift using my 12V Bosch ps130-2A cordless drill. 90008 At it’s lower point it offers a 132mm high working platform while the small scissor lift platform can reach 300mm at its highest point.90008 Although this small gadget was made specifically for my drill press, the design can be scaled and adapted to be used for a number of different applications. 90006 90004 In this post, I will be sharing my drawings and build process for my version of a small DIY scissor lift. 90006 90004 90006 90004 90017 90018 90006 90020 Lumber cutting list — (PAR’ed Pine): 90021 90004 90023 90006 90004 90026 A 90027 x (1) — 440x186x22 90008 90026 B 90027 x (4) — 440x44x22 90008 90026 C 90027 x (2) — 168x44x22 90008 90026 D 90027 x (8) — 230x22x22 90008 90026 E 90027 x (2) — 92x22x22 90008 90026 F 90027 x (4) — 50x22x22 90008 90026 G 90027 x (8) — 46 × 10 Dowel 90008 90026 H 90027 x (4) — 24 × 16 Dowel 90008 90026 I 90027 x (4) — 47X16 Dowel 90006 90020 Other parts: 90021 90004 90056 90006 90004 90026 J 90027 x (4) — 6 × 10 screws 90008 90026 K 90027 x (24) — 8 × 35 screws 90008 90026 L 90027 x (4) — 8 × 70 screws 90008 90026 M 90027 x (2) — 10 × 30 Penny washer 90008 90026 N 90027 x () — 10 × 12 Washer 90008 90026 O 90027 x (1) — 10x Threaded rod 90008 90026 P 90027 x (20) — 6 × 20 Washer 90008 90026 Q 90027 x (4) — 6 × 40 Penny washer 90008 90026 R 90027 x (8) — 6 × 90 Threaded rod 90008 90026 S 90027 x (4) — 6 × 70 Threaded rod 90008 90026 T 90027 x (4) — 10mm Nuts (Two lock nuts) 90008 90026 U 90027 x (26) — 6mm Nuts (lock nuts) 90006 90020 Assembled dimensions 90021 90004 90098 90006 90020 Get building — Step 1 — The top and base 90021 90004 90006 90104 BASE 90105 TOP 90004 90006 90004 90006 90004 90006 90004 90006 90004 90006 90004 90006 90004 90006 90004 90006 90122 Component «F» — Hole orientation and size.90004 The top is assembled by fitting 2 of the «90026 B 90027» components to the sides of the «90026 A 90027» component, as shown in the photograph above. Thereafter prepare and fit an «90026 F 90027» component to the center of each one of the «90026 B 90027» components. 90006 90004 Preparation of the «90026 F 90027» component is done by drilling a 10mm hole as indicated by the diagram. 90006 90004 The base is assembled in much the same manner however the «90026 A 90027» component is replaced with 2 «90026 C 90027» components.90006 90004 90144 90006 90004 The assembly of the top and base is fairly straightforward with the only aspect that needs to be noted is the orientation of the 10mm hole in component «90026 F 90027». 90008 This will be the point where the scissor mechanism will fix to the top and base. 90008 It is for that reason that the center point of this hole should be inline with the center point of the sliders when the lift is assembled. 90008 The sliders are made using 16mm dowels. Therefore the center of the 10mm hole that needs to be drilled in component «90026 F 90027» should be 8mm from the edge that will be fixed to the «90026 B 90027» components.90006 90020 Step 2 — The scissor mechanism 90021 90004 90006 90161 Scissor leg assembly — 1 0f 4. 90162 Scissor peg hole orientation. 90004 Of the 8 «90026 D 90027» components, 4 will be drilled in a 6-10-10mm pattern while the remaining 4 are drilled in a 6-10-6mm pattern (90166 6 and 10 referring to hole size) 90167 as shown in the above diagram. 90006 90004 One of each of these will be assembled along with 1 «90026 G 90027» component (90166 10x46mm dowel 90167) and 1 10mm washer ( «90026 N 90027») to make up 1 of 4 scissor legs.90006 90004 Push the dowel through the middle hole on one of the pegs, then add the washer followed by the other peg. 90006 90004 The purpose of the washer is to prevent the wood from grinding up against each other when the lift is being raised and lowered. 90006 90004 A 6mm hole needs to be added to the center of the 10mm dowel. This can be done before or after assembling the scissor leg. 90006 90004 Repeat this step 4 times to make all of the scissor legs. 90006 90020 Step 3 — Height adjustment mechanism 90021 90004 90006 90004 90190 90006 90192 «E» component preparation.Center holes. 90004 In this step, you will drill 10mm holes in the center of the 2 «90026 E 90027» components to accommodate the 10mm threaded rod. 90008 Fasten the threaded rod to one of these using 2 of the 10mm washers and the 2 10mm lock nuts, as shown to the left of the above image. 90008 This will be the fixed point of the rod so the lock nuts should be fastened to a point where the rod can still turn within the «90026 E 90027» component. 90006 90004 As for the other «90026 E 90027» component, use a chisel and a mallet to enlarge the hole in the shape of a 10mm nut.90166 (Refer to video for visual instruction) 90167 90008 After doing so the remaining two 10mm nuts (90166 not lock nuts 90167) can be inserted into the cutouts. 90008 To prevent the nuts from slipping out of the wood when the jack is operated, they are secured with the 10mm penny washers ( «90026 M 90027»). 90008 By drilling 2 holes in the washers they can be attached to the wood using screws ( «90026 J 90027»). 90008 This will be the adjustable point. 90006 90004 When the adjustment mechanism has been completed, the 4 scissor legs can be attached.90008 This is done by simply using the 70mm screws along with 4 6mm washers to fix the legs to the assembled adjustment mechanism. Remember to add another 10mm washer between the scissor leg and the «90026 E 90027» component to prevent grinding of the wood when operating. 90006 90004 When attaching the scissor legs to the adjustment mechanism, the pegs with the 6-10-6 hole configuration should be toward the inside. 90006 90004 Note that the dowel is longer than the scissor leg assembly is wide.This means that when the screws are added and the legs are attached to the «90026 E 90027» components, the scissor mechanism should be able to move freely. 90006 90020 Step 4 — Attaching the sliders (16mm dowels) 90021 90004 90006 90004 90233 90006 90004 90236 Attaching the sliders is simple enough. Using the 4 short 6mm rods ( «90026 S 90027») for the short sliders ( «90026 H 90027») along with a 6mm washer toward the inside and a 6mm penny washer on the outside, attached the sliders with two 6mm nuts on either side of the rod ( «90026 U 90027»).The process of attaching the long sliders is the same, however, instead of short rods and sliders, you will use the longer ones ( «90026 I 90027» and «90026 R 90027»). 90006 90004 The important part of this step is the orientation of the scissor leg pegs when the sliders have been fixed. In the above image, it can be noted that the shorter sliders are attached to the outer pegs of the scissor leg while the longer sliders are attached to the inner pegs. 90008 Also, the short sliders are positioned at the top at the front of the assembly while at the back, they are positioned at the bottom.90006 90020 Step 5 — Bring it all together 90021 90004 90006 90004 90256 90006.